Allow us to preface this article with
this: Surfing is not a particularly dangerous sport. You’re much more
likely to die on the freeway than while pursuing the passion of wave
riding. That said, tragedy strikes the tight-knit surf community more often than we would like, and there are a handful of surf spots where dying is more likely than at others.
Regardless, surfers flock to these deadly waves in droves. It’s the rush, the danger, and the sheer joy one gets from flying down the face of an incredibly large mountain of water that keep us coming back for more despite the odds — albeit minuscule — of that being that fateful last ride.
Despite the ferocity of Tahiti’s most infamous wave, only one surfer has lost his life at Teahupo‘o.
It was back in 2000 when local surfer Briece Taerea
attempted to punch through a massive wave and was sucked backwards on
to the reef. Others have been lucky to survive after colliding with the
coral reef located a quarter of a mile off the southern tip of Tahiti.
What makes Teahupo‘o so dangerous is the sheer thickness of the wave —
swells approach Teahupo‘o out of incredibly deep water and are unimpeded
by a continental shelf.
The result is a mutant of a wave that is oftentimes thicker than it is tall and breaks in mere feet of water over a live coral reef. Adding to the terrifying nature of the wave is local lore that harkens back to the days of tribal warfare and has “Teahupo‘o” roughly translated to “chop the head” in English.
Located in northern California’s “Red Triangle,” so dubbed because of the number of great white sharks that frequent the area, Mavericks is much more likely to kill a surfer with its enormous, 20-plus-foot waves than with its sea creatures.
Regardless, surfers flock to these deadly waves in droves. It’s the rush, the danger, and the sheer joy one gets from flying down the face of an incredibly large mountain of water that keep us coming back for more despite the odds — albeit minuscule — of that being that fateful last ride.
Teahupo‘o
Unidentified man taking the plunge at Teahupo‘o, one of the world’s deadliest surf spot. Photo: Noyle/SURFER
The result is a mutant of a wave that is oftentimes thicker than it is tall and breaks in mere feet of water over a live coral reef. Adding to the terrifying nature of the wave is local lore that harkens back to the days of tribal warfare and has “Teahupo‘o” roughly translated to “chop the head” in English.
Mavericks
Big-wave surfer Shane Dorian at Mavericks, one of the world’s deadliest surf spots. Photo: Glaser/SURFER
An intimidating, ice-cold surf spot that breaks far rom the beach,
Mavericks has claimed the lives of some of surfing’s most accomplished
big-wave surfers. Indeed, the surfing community was rocked to the core
when big-wave surfer Mark Foo died while surfing Mavericks in 1994, and
once again when Sion Milosky, one of the best big-wave surfers of his generation, passed away while surfing Mavericks in 2011. After Milosky’s untimely passing, highly regarded surfer Mike Parsons
theorized that when it’s low tide at Mavericks, the wave has a tendency
to hold surfers underwater for a length of time that can be deadly.
The granddaddy of big-wave spots is also one of the deadliest. Waimea Bay,
located on the north shore of Oahu, saw its first surfing fatality way
back in 1943, when surf pioneers Woody Brown and Dickie Cross got stuck
in giant surf at nearby Sunset Beach and started paddling to Waimea Bay
just so they could get in. Woody Brown made it, and Dickie Cross was
never seen again.
Waimea Bay
Big-wave surfer Mark Healey at Waimea Bay, one of the world’s deadliest surf spots. Photo: Courtesy Quiksilver.com/Eddie
Unfortunately, Cross wouldn’t be the last surfer to lose his life at
Waimea Bay. In 1995, up-and-coming Californian pro surfer Donnie Solomon
died after getting caught inside what witnesses said was a wave well in
excess of 20 feet (as measured from the back, which is traditional in
Hawaii).
Dubbed the “Mexican Pipeline,” Puerto Escondido
may be the only wave on the planet that has claimed the lives of as
many surfers as the real Pipeline. And it’s not just unknowing tourists
getting swept off the beach like you hear of at other Mexican beach
resort towns — some incredibly talented surfers have lost their lives
while taking on Playa Zicatela, Puerto Escondido.
Puerto Escondido
One of the top 5 deadliest surf spots, Puerto Escondido packs a punch no matter what size. Photo: Neves/SURFER
Unlike other beachbreaks, there’s a massive submarine canyon just
offshore of the break that funnels big south swells into a concentrated
stretch of beach. What results is an ultra-violent wave that breaks over
hard-packed sand.
Located on the north shore of Oahu, Pipeline is the deadliest wave in the world.
Pipeline
Pipeline, on the north shore of Oahu, is hands down the deadliest surf spots in the world. Photo: Noyle/SURFER
Incredibly powerful waves break mere yards from the shore over a
jagged coral reef that is broken up with deep crevices and spikes that
can—and have—impale surfers. The wave has been surfed since the early
’60s and casualties have occurred ever since. Professional surfer Malik
Joyeux from Tahiti, bodyboarder Joshua Nakata, acclaimed surf
photographer Jon Mozo, Puerto Rican surfer Joaquin Velilla, and Japanese
pro surfer Moto Watanabe are just a few who have lost their lives while
taking on Pipeline’s perilous waves.
Ironically, the most dangerous days aren’t when the swell is at its biggest, but rather when the swell is on its way up and waves tend to double up upon each other. Despite the risks, surfers from around the world flock to the north shore of Oahu every year specifically to ride Pipeline.
Ironically, the most dangerous days aren’t when the swell is at its biggest, but rather when the swell is on its way up and waves tend to double up upon each other. Despite the risks, surfers from around the world flock to the north shore of Oahu every year specifically to ride Pipeline.
