We Are Surfers

6 reasons why surfing is better than Making Love

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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">When
 I was introduced to surfing I was told it’s better than sex. Having 
never surfed before I thought the guy telling me this was a total 
madman. But after a few sessions borrowing his spare board and wettie, I
 was hooked.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Six
 years later I'm still a surf junkie, writing about why surfing is, in 
fact (100% fact, possibly, maybe), better than sex. I suppose when he 
reads this he'll be saying, “I told you so!”</span></div>
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><b>1. Surfing lasts longer</b></span></div>
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Research
 shows the average male lasts 14 minutes. How long do you usually surf 
for? Most of us class a 45 minute session as short. And we've all pushed
 through the 3-4 hour sessions when the surf's too good to pass up. All 
in all, surfing lasts longer than sex. Not always. But nearly.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><b>2. Surfing has more climaxes</b><br />Catching
 a wave is the climax of surfing. Sometimes you spend ages trying to 
find the right spot. You paddle to where you think you should be, you 
play there for a little bit, find you weren't quite there, adjust, 
finally get the peak, paddle hard, drop in and BAM. You're at one with 
the most beautiful thing on this earth. And you're in perfect ecstasy.<br /><br />Now
 when it comes to surfing you can do that dozens of times a session. 
That's a lot of climaxing. Have you ever had that much success in the 
bedroom? If so you're very lucky. And superhuman.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /><b>3. Surfing comes with less strings attached</b><b><br /></b>The
 only string in surfing is your leash. And that’s there for everyone's 
safety. It's a good string. Now don't get me wrong, there's a lot of 
love and emotion in surfing. Sometimes too much. You love your favourite
 board. You love your favourite break. When you leave your favourite 
break and put your board back in its sack after an amazing session you 
feel a deep longing to see them again very soon.<br /><br />That same 
longing might be felt for your partner when you're missing them. But 
with surfing it’s different. Say you went to another break the next day 
and used a different board; you wouldn't upset anyone. If anything, the 
more spots you surf and the more boards you get experience on, the more 
your favourite break will reward you for knowing how it's done.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">The
 same concept is very unlikely when it comes to relationship etiquette. 
All in all, your board, your break and the surf's love for you is 
completely unconditional.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Though don’t expect your relationship with surfing to avoid rocky patches, frustrating days and breaking points.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><b>4. Surfing solo is much more rewarding</b></span></div>
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">You're in the water. Just you. The waves are epic. You catch one. Good times. You paddle back out. Still just you and the ocean.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">It's
 rare to have a break all to yourself, but sometimes it happens. When it
 does you'll really appreciate the hassle-free solitude and all the 
waves you can shake a stick at. It's a feeling like no other. The same 
can't be said for a solo session in the bedroom. Unless, well, you're 
rather weird.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><b>5. Appearances don't matter in surfing</b></span></div>
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Let's
 face it, you don't want to enter the bedroom looking like you've 
forgotten your grooming regime for three months. It's a shallow world we
 live in, but when it comes to sex, looks matter. In surfing, it 
shouldn't, and usually doesn't matter at all.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Yeah,
 the big brands use stunning pros and models to sell their products. But
 we all see past that, don't we? I hope so. In the water, the only thing
 that matters is how much fun everyone is having. Looks don't come into 
it. Seawater will wipe your canvas clean anyway, forcing you to show 
your natural beauty. It doesn't matter how you look, or how anyone else 
looks. And if you find things like that mattering you might want to 
rethink your surf ethic.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><b>6. Safe surfing doesn't mean half the sensation</b></span></div>
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Part
 of surfing is embracing danger and the unknown. Some people relish the 
adrenaline of thinking this sketchy, gigantic session might be their 
last. But more people have more fun with a safe surf.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">When
 it's 2-3ft, clean and peeling with an easy paddle on a lifeguarded 
beach, you don't suddenly feel like you've been robbed of the real 
thing. You have as good a surf as ever. Safe surfing is as sensational 
as the dangerous sessions, it’s just different. Safe sex on the other 
hand leaves many disappointed. But it has to be done.</span></div>

6 reasons why surfing is better than Making Love

When I was introduced to surfing I was told it’s better than sex. Having never surfed before I thought the guy telling me this was ...

The Smallest Shark Attack You’ve Ever Seen (Video)

Video 8:23 PM

The Smallest Shark Attack You’ve Ever Seen (Video)

When diving in South Florida, one little shark bit on to a swimmer and would not let go, even out of the water

THREE BARREL HOUNDS IN NIAS

Video 8:22 PM

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Basque barrel hound Aritz Aranburu left town a while back for greener pastures (re: greener, thumping barrels) in Nias with Spain’s Indar Unanue and Italy’s Leo Fioravanti, collecting the footage for the first in a hashtagged web series. Aritz can sniff out the tubing peak of any swell. Mundaka, Hossegor – he seems to be in every edit when the conditions are glassy and piping. A trip with him guarantees a top-end barrel exchange, and the second half of the 11-minute clip above shows as much.</div>
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THREE BARREL HOUNDS IN NIAS

Basque barrel hound Aritz Aranburu left town a while back for greener pastures (re: greener, thumping barrels) in Nias with Spain’s Ind...

Did Nathan Florence Just Ride the Heaviest Wave Ever Paddled at Teahupo’o?

Video 8:19 PM

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Not since the late great Andy Irons has a single ride at Teahupo'o 
generated so much chatter along the coconut wire. This wave -- this 
ridiculously big, thick, wide and... basically impossible wave -- has 
officially launched Nathan Florence into the annals of surfing history. 
At least as far as Kelly Slater, Sebastian Zietz and anyone else who 
witnessed the feat in person is concerned. Which makes perfect sense, as
 Seabass pointed out: "He's a Florence."<br />
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We can't predict the future, but chances are you're probably not going to see another ride this incredible for a very long time.<br />
Video: Tim Bonython @swellchasers<br />
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Did Nathan Florence Just Ride the Heaviest Wave Ever Paddled at Teahupo’o?

Not since the late great Andy Irons has a single ride at Teahupo'o generated so much chatter along the coconut wire. This wave -- t...

Amazing Health Benefits of Surfing for Body and Mind

Health, WeAreSurfers 6:31 PM

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<span style="font-weight: 400;">Surfing is one of the most enjoyable exercises there is, especially for the enthusiasts of surface</span><span style="font-weight: 400;">water sports. In this sport, the rider moves forward towards the shore with the flow of the wave.</span><span style="font-weight: 400;">All of us are more or less aware of this water sport. However, only a bunch of us know the array</span><span style="font-weight: 400;">of health benefits surfing brings along for the body and mind. By the time we finish reading this</span><span style="font-weight: 400;">article, that will no longer be a mystery. Let us read ahead to find fantastic health benefits of</span><span style="font-weight: 400;">surfing for the body and mind.</span></h4>
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<a href="https://tahititourisme.com/en-us/tahiti-activities/outdoors/tahiti-surf/" target="_blank">Image Source</a><br />
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<b>Helps tackle anxiety</b><br />
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<span style="font-weight: normal;">The unconventional sport of surfing involves a great deal of physical activity. The thrill you<br />experience gives your spirit a sense of upliftment and substantially improves the mood. Besides,<br />immersing oneself in cold water while partaking in it helps release a batch of endorphins in the<br />body. A study suggests that surfing generates and sends electrical impulses to the brain. It<br />produces a similar effect as electroshock therapy and helps treat depression. Another reason<br />surfing has a positive impact on mental health is that it activates both the parasympathetic and<br />sympathetic nervous system.<br />The sedentary lifestyle we lead tends to exacerbate the problem of anxiety and depression.<br />Going for a session of surfing pumps blood into every part of the body, sends more oxygen to the brain, and makes one feel confident about themselves. Due to this quality, it can also<br />contribute to the treatment of autism and post-traumatic stress disorder (PTSD).</span></h4>
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<a href="https://barefootsurftravel.com/livemore-magazine/5-things-know-start-surfing" target="_blank">Image Source</a><br />
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<b>Provides a dose of Vitamin D</b><br />
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<span style="font-weight: normal;">Whenever you go out to surf, your body comes into direct contact with the sunlight. It enables<br />you to get a healthy dosage of natural source of vitamin D. Sitting in our offices all day, working<br />on a desk, deprives us of these crucial nutrients. Surfing can thus, help you attain exactly that.<br />The vitamin D that you get facilitates the absorption of calcium in the body. Therefore, the whole<br />process improves bone health and spurs the generation of new cells in the body.<br />However, it is best to apply sunscreen when you go out. It will protect your skin from the UV<br />rays that can be harmful to the skin.<br />Strengthens core<br />An excess weight near the abdomen area is highly harmful to health. According to the findings<br />of a study, an increase in visceral fat around the stomach causes the likelihood of the onset of<br />type 2 diabetes. It also poses a risk to the cardiovascular health of the body.<br />To lose unnecessary fat and strengthen the core, surfing can help a huge deal. It helps shed<br />away the unnecessary fat and flab, thereby enabling the body to achieve a toned body. Hence,<br />surfing acts as a high-intensity exercise that burns fat and builds muscle in the bodysimultaneously</span>.</h4>
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<b>Promotes back strength</b><br />
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<span style="font-weight: normal;">Our entire body requires the back and spine to be able to carry out almost all of our daily<br />activities. Besides, long hours we spend on computers tends to harm the spine. This is where<br />the activity of surfing can be great for the body. It generates strong muscles in the back and<br />promotes flexibility of the spine. Some moves especially make the back stronger while surfing.<br />These include paddling, jumping on the board, and the prone position.<br />Those who love travelling can locate the places in the world they can surf. Hawaii, South Africa,<br />and Indonesia offer the best experiences when it comes to surfing. To locate the places you<br />intend to reach efficiently, you can make use of the scratch-off map of the world.</span></h4>
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<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b6hoBp7Hk-A" target="_blank">Image source</a><br />
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<b>Improves cardiovascular health</b><br />
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<span style="font-weight: normal;">Cardiovascular health is essential to maintain the functionality of the body. It includes the<br />regulation of blood sugar levels, blood pressure, cholesterol levels, and circulation. Good heart<br />health enables the body pump oxygen throughout the parts of the body. Without this, the organs<br />of the body would face troubles in carrying out their functions appropriately.<br />Surfing provides a way for the body to partake in cardiovascular exercises. Since it is one of the<br />cardio exercises, it helps keep the body in shape and maintain fitness. As a result, the body<br />functions well, both physically and mentally. </span></h4>
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<b>Enhances concentration</b><br />
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<span style="font-weight: normal;">Surfing requires one to put their complete focus on the activity as the margin of error is<br />extremely low. It trains the mind to concentrate on the task at hand for more extended periods. It<br />also facilitates the individual to practise mindfulness, which is about being aware of one’s<br />surroundings and gracefully transcending yourselves from moment to moment.<br />Since surfing enables the mind to practice complete concentration, it promotes the body’s ability<br />to perform well at the tasks given to the person. Hence, surfing contributes to the addition of<br />value to the personality over time. It makes it a form of meditation for the body.</span></h4>
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<a href="http://discovery.cathaypacific.com/tribes-of-hong-kong-the-surfers/" target="_blank">Image source</a><br />
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<span style="font-weight: normal;">Since this water sport requires one to balance strenuously, it improves the hand-eye<br />coordination of the person taking part in it. A study by the Southern Cross University in Australia<br />found that recreational surfing aids in the maintenance of balance, control, and coordination of<br />different parts of the body.<br />Surfing in itself is one of the most efficient exercises to burn calories. The above-said functions<br />of surfing make it not only an interesting activity but also a sport that promotes health. Hence,<br />indulge in this water sport whenever you get the chance to add up to wonderful experiences in<br />life.</span></h4>
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Amazing Health Benefits of Surfing for Body and Mind

Surfing is one of the most enjoyable exercises there is, especially for the enthusiasts of surface water sports. In this sport, the rider...

AN AMAZING VIDEO OF THE FRENCH SPOTS

News, Top, Top 5, Video, WeAreSurfers 9:19 PM

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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Andreas Ummenhofer considers this clip as a tribute to JJF's work, and in no way an attempt to measure himself against it. However, if the aquatic performances of amateur surfers are obviously a thousand miles from what the Hawaiian champion can offer, the aerial shots are absolutely superb, and the editing perfectly mastered. And what a pleasure to recognize in these images the spots of the Landes beaches, then those of the Basque coast!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">For more fun articles, click <a href="https://wearesurfers.net/" target="_blank">here</a>!</span></div>

AN AMAZING VIDEO OF THE FRENCH SPOTS

Andreas Ummenhofer considers this clip as a tribute to JJF's work, and in no way an attempt to measure himself against it. Howe...

A NEW WAVE DISCOVERED IN INDIA

Best Of, News, Video, WeAreSurfers 9:09 PM

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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Kepa Acero puts it on the table, he's used to long journeys. According to Google Earth, the wave had all the potential to be a new Skeleton Bay. Even more so when the largest swell of the last 25 years was heading towards the small Indian island, which was difficult to access. Accustomed to the fact, Natxo Gonzalez, Kepa Acero and Aritz Aranburu took their courage with both hands and braved the Indian authorities to try to score what they thought was a perfect new wave. And despite the difficulty of the language, the hostility of the local authorities and many other obstacles, the Basque trio managed to get there.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The result was... surprising! A perfect wave from afar but in the end, far from perfect. Not to mention, unsurfaced. However, the trio will leave this trip with eye-popping images, with the bonus of a night under the stars.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">For more articles, click <a href="http://wearesurfers.net/" target="_blank">here</a>!</span></div>

A NEW WAVE DISCOVERED IN INDIA

Kepa Acero puts it on the table, he's used to long journeys. According to Google Earth, the wave had all the potential to be a ne...

GABRIEL MEDINA AS YOU HAVE NEVER SEEN HIM BEFORE

Best Of, Pro Surfers, Video, WeAreSurfers 9:07 PM

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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Gabriel Medina, a brilliant jewel of the CT, is undoubtedly one of the most talented surfers on the planet. A great competitor and a source of pride for the Brazilian people, the 24-year-old is fast approaching a second world title. He will give everything to win the Pipeline Grand Final in a few weeks in Hawaii....</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">If some purists have trouble understanding Medina he remains a talented surfer whatever the conditions, and very impressive on his competitions. A cold-blooded monster, a charger... But now let's discover something else about him: his family, his city, his state of mind... "Family is the most important thing for him. His sister, brother, parents..." explains Ryan Fletcher, team manager at Rip Curl. Discover Gabriel as you did not know him....</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Video by <b>WSL</b></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 15px; text-align: center;">                                                           WSL / Poullenot</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">For more articles, click <a href="http://wearesurfers.net/" target="_blank">here</a>!</span></div>

GABRIEL MEDINA AS YOU HAVE NEVER SEEN HIM BEFORE

Gabriel Medina, a brilliant jewel of the CT, is undoubtedly one of the most talented surfers on the planet. A great competitor and ...

First Full Length Doc on Women’s Big Wave Surfing Ruffles Feathers, Wins Awards

WeAreSurfers 8:02 PM

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<span style="box-sizing: border-box; font-weight: 700;">After winning four audience-choice awards in film festivals, “It Ain’t Pretty,” the first feature-length documentary on women’s big wave surfing, will be available to the public. </span>For the past six months, the film has been shown around the world but only to audiences of film festivals and private screenings. The movie hits iTunes and Amazon on Feb. 7 (the price hasn’t been set yet but should be less than $10).</div>
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“It Ain’t Pretty” centers on the “Outer Bar Babes,” a group of female surfers who charge San Francisco’s Ocean Beach and some of the other heaviest waves on earth including Mavericks and Jaws. The film’s name has a few layers of meaning. The most obvious is that these surfers, with their thick hooded wetsuits and sometimes ugly wipeouts, don’t fit the bikini-clad, tropical image so often found in the surf media.</div>
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Filmmaker Dayla Soul says she doesn’t have a problem with that image, but she wants to show another side of women’s surfing. “We want to see hard ass-women out there in 30-foot waves,” Soul says.</div>
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“We need to break down this whole idea of sexualizing everything, I’m not being sexual when I’m out surfing. I’m just getting rad,” says Rebecca Sandidge, an Ocean Beach surfer, who appears in the film.</div>
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The name is equally fitting to the ongoing drama between the Titans of Mavericks contest and those who for years have asked for a women’s division. Last fall, the organizers finally acquiesced and laid the ground to add a women’s heat to the comp starting in the 2017-2018 winter.</div>
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“There’s been a little resistance, but it’s time now,” she says. “A couple of years ago there weren’t enough women who could fill contests, but now there are, and they’re at that level where they’re ready to perform on the big stage.”</div>
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Alongside Bianca Valenti, an Ocean Beach and Mavericks regular on whom the movie largely focuses, are other elite big wave riders including Andrea Moller, Keala Kennelly, Paige Alms, Emi Erickson, Sarah Gerhardt, Jamilah Starr and others.</div>
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Soul had the good fortune to document Bianca Valenti when she won the 2014 women’s big wave contest at Nelscott Reef. That moment became a turning point for Valenti, one that led her to become a loud voice in the quest to make big wave surfing more inclusive to women, a journey the film documents in depth. “That’s where the motivation came for doing more contests,” Valenti says. “That’s when we started asking for a heat at Mavercicks, and that’s when I started organizing around that and envisioning what we wanted.”</div>
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The documentary is the first from Soul, a Kauai native living in San Francisco who is a contractor by trade. Soul doesn’t consider herself a big wave surfer,  but when Ocean Beach is pulling in 6-foot long period swell, she’s out there, she says. “I didn’t have some agenda about sexism in the industry, it just evolved, because I think that’s a big topic right now. That’s what the women ended up discussing” says Soul.</div>
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The project began four years ago. Having filmed surfing before, Soul knew she wanted high quality cameras and lenses as well as talented filmers and editors, so she launched a Kickstarter campaign that eventually netted $36,000.</div>
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“I knew to hire all the best people, that’s what makes the film,” she says. Soul brought on board documentary <a href="http://www.sachicunningham.com/bio.php" style="background-color: transparent; box-sizing: border-box; color: #09b1d8; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">filmmaker Sachi Cunningham</a>, shelled out for drone shots, and hired an editor.</div>
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Though other documentaries have examined the lives of individual female big wave surfers, “It Ain’t Pretty” takes a broader view of the sport, looks at the portrayal of women in surf media and the Mavericks controversy. The movie’s tag line is “The Women’s Big Wave Movement.”</div>
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Among the best receptions the film has recieved so far, it won an audience choice award at his year’s Santa Cruz Surf Film Festival.</div>

First Full Length Doc on Women’s Big Wave Surfing Ruffles Feathers, Wins Awards

After winning four audience-choice awards in film festivals, “It Ain’t Pretty,” the first feature-length documentary on women’s big wave...

See the Moment a Bull Shark Attacks a Spearfisherman in Australia

Video 8:00 PM

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<span style="box-sizing: border-box; font-weight: 700;">A few days ago, I went spearfishing with a couple of friends.</span> After swimming through a school of sierras and not taking a shot, I came back empty handed. My friend, though, came back with a 40-pound roosterfish slung over his back, fish guts in his hair, and a huge, shit-eating grin on his face. The next day, he shot a grouper that looked to be the size of a hideous, brown school bus. Even dragging around a large, bloody dead fish, I’m sure he wasn’t thinking about sharks. I know I wasn’t while I was flopping around trying not to get my legs tangled in the buoy line. That’s because where we are right now isn’t exactly the shark attack capital of the world–that unofficial title would probably go to somewhere in Australia, given the odd spate of shark attacks in the last few years.</div>
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That’s where the video you see above took place. In northern Queensland, a spearfisherman was part way through his dive when he encountered an aggressive bull shark. It’s hard to watch, not only because it’s scary, but because he shoots the shark right into its open mouth–which he absolutely needed to do.</div>

See the Moment a Bull Shark Attacks a Spearfisherman in Australia

A few days ago, I went spearfishing with a couple of friends. After swimming through a school of sierras and not taking a shot, I cam...

Beastie Boys’ Mike D Talks Surfing and Life in Malibu with Rolling Stone

WeAreSurfers 7:58 PM

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<span style="box-sizing: border-box; font-weight: 700;">Rincon, the Queen of the Coast, has awoken from her months long slumber in recent weeks.</span>  And when the place is working it has a certain draw, a gravitational pull you might say. A guy from San Diego might start chatting your ear off. A family from San Francisco might be splitting waves. Hell, a celebrity from Malibu might bring his son to surf some of the best waves California has to offer.</div>
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That last one actually happened recently. Walking through the parking lot at Rincon for a late Sunday morning session, I actually walked right past none other than ex-Beastie Boy Mike Diamond (aka Mike D) himself, waxing up before walking down with his son. Zach (<a href="http://www.theinertia.com/author/zach-weisberg/" style="background-color: transparent; box-sizing: border-box; color: #09b1d8; text-decoration: none;">founder of this here website</a>) and I were casually strolling past. A few seconds later Zach turned to me, “Dude, that was Mike D!” he said.</div>
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The ex-Beastie, ex-New Yorker, has repatriated himself in the west. His Malibu home is also his studio for his Beats 1 radio show, <em style="box-sizing: border-box;">The Echo Chamber</em>. But, perhaps in one of the most unexpected twists of life for a patriarch of rap-rock music, and also totally Malibu, Mike D has become a serious surf junkie.</div>
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Ingratiated in the world of surf celebrity, he calls Steph Gilmore, Kelly Slater, Kassia Meador, and other pros friends, attending events they put on in LA. He even hosted Steph on an episode of <em style="box-sizing: border-box;">The Echo Chamber </em>to talk Madonna.</div>
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To the general public, and probably even fans of the Beastie Boys, this side of Mike D may be less understood. Indeed, <em style="box-sizing: border-box;">Rolling Stone</em> may be the first non-surf publication to really dive into Mike’s interest in surfing in a recent <a href="http://www.rollingstone.com/music/features/how-exbeastie-boy-mike-d-found-new-peace-in-malibu-w451725" style="background-color: transparent; box-sizing: border-box; color: #09b1d8; text-decoration: none;">article</a>.</div>
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11 years ago, the piece explains, Mike bought some property in Malibu. It’s now become a little beachside sanctuary, surfing being an integral way to handle life’s hurdles. A quotation from the final paragraph emphasizes the point:</div>
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<em style="box-sizing: border-box;">“It’s about subjecting yourself totally to nature’s control,” he explains, trying to describe surfing’s near-spiritual appeal to him. “Someone like Kelly Slater” – a pro, and another buddy – “can read more astutely what nature is giving him, but even he can’t control it.” And so Diamond has shaped much of his life around surfing, not just getting down to the Malibu beach as often as he can manage but traveling the globe and chasing waves while dipping into other projects that tickle his fancy.</em></div>
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While a life in Malibu, traveling the world and working only on projects that excite sounds like a dream come true, and it probably is, that doesn’t mean it’s a life devoid of difficulties. Mike D has had tribulations in recent years. Notably, the separation from his wife, filmmaker Tamra Davis, and the death of 1/3 of the Beastie trio Adam Yauch in 2012, when Yauch succumbed to cancer. Still, Mike D explains that life in Malibu, and particularly surfing, is an outlet. The article goes so far as to call his attraction to surfing an obsession.</div>
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And he’s passing that obsession on to his kids. Out in the water a little later, I floated past Mike and his son (he has two: Davis, 14, and Skyler, 12). “Here you go. Here’s one,” Mike said, motioning at an incoming wave. “Daaad. I’m not gonna go for that. It’s like a thousand yards away,” his son replied in a too-cool-for-dad (even if your dad is Mike D) kind of way. Mike rolled his eyes, splashing in his son’s direction.</div>

Beastie Boys’ Mike D Talks Surfing and Life in Malibu with Rolling Stone

Rincon, the Queen of the Coast, has awoken from her months long slumber in recent weeks. And when the place is working it has a certa...

Why Learning To Surf Is Perfectly Safe

Learn Why, WeAreSurfers 9:05 PM

Surfing is viewed as one of the most extreme sports out there. 
Though it looks fun and exciting safety is one of the main concerns.  If
 you are planning to learn to surf, all you need is to get a good 
instructor to teach you how to surf and be safe in the water.  Once you 
get the hang of this awesome sport you will have the best time of your 
life and get the rush you are looking for.<br />
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<br />
Finding the best 
surfing school is the first step, as soon as you get the best school in 
town then that's when your journey begins.  There are surf boards for 
beginners and you will be taught how to paddle and balance yourself on 
them. As you learn to surf your instructor will teach you different 
paddling techniques that you can use effectively when you start hitting 
the water. You'll also be taught the proper stance and how to balance on
 your board. All of this initial training takes place on the sand. It 
may look ridiculous but this will definitely benefit you. Knowing what 
to do before going into the water contributes to keeping you safe. Your 
instructor will also include a 10 to 15 minutes stretching session to 
loosen up those sleeping muscles and to avoid any cramps or injury.<br />
<br />
Every
 beach is different and as you learn to surf your instructor will teach 
you how to read the waves and give you advice on how to navigate the 
surf to avoid unexpected accidents. Your instructor will also go through
 other important surf safety rules, like how to get on and off your 
board safety, falling into the water feet first or with your hands above
 your head to avoid neck and spinal injuries, staying alert, using your 
peripheral vision and many other tips. The most important thing is to 
listen and follow what your instructor says. Having full trust in your 
instructor is the key to a successful training session, remember that 
they have years of experience. And if you have any questions or concerns
 don't be afraid to ask as your guide will gladly help you.<br />
<br />
When 
you're finished with your training on the beach, it's time to have some 
real water experience. There are beaches available for those learning to
 surf where the waves are moderate and perfect for beginners. If you 
think that you will hit the big waves out in the sea first, don't get to
 excited, learning to surf takes time and you need to practice your 
newly learnt skills on the smaller waves in the shallow water before 
venturing into deeper waters and more challenging waves.<br />
<br />
Another 
important safety tip when learning to surf is to make sure you surf on 
patrolled beaches and in the areas allocated for surfers. You should 
also always go surfing with a friend so that you can look out for one 
another.<br />
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Learning to surf is perfectly safe provided you get the 
right training and follow the above tips. Surfing is a lot of fun that 
will give you an awesome adventure and nothing beats the feeling of 
riding as one with the waves!</div>

Why Learning To Surf Is Perfectly Safe

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