Surfing’s a funny, humbling thing. It’s like golf. One day you’re absolutely crushing it, and the next it’s like you’ve never swung a club. Most of us like to blame our equipment, but that’s rarely the case. Instead, subtle changes that aren’t easily recognizable completely change the dynamic of the game, springing you into a world of confusion and frustration. “Why do I even surf?” you mumble on the paddle back out.
Sometimes, though, taking a step back to analyze your approach is the only way to make it out of that rut. More rarely, a legend of the game will allow you to peek into their brilliant mind as they divulge secrets of their success. Such was the case in Hawaii last winter when Kelly discussed his “caterpillar theory” of performance surfing in front of a group of eager students.
Time to put on your school uniform, ladies and gents. Professor Slater’s class is now in session.
