How can I explain surfing in one word? WOW! Surfing is the best "high" you will ever experience. This article will tell you about the special feelings that you will get once you get hooked on surfing. There are many ways to explain what surfing is all about. Here are a few.
Surfing is Aloha. Surfing is Freedom. Surfing is Living. Surfing is Stoke. Surfing is a Feeling. Surfing is Happiness. Surfing is like having a Love Affair. Surfing is in your Heart. Surfing is Love. Surfing is Wonderful. Surfing is God Given. Surfing is Life.
There are nearly as many expressions of surfing as there are watermen; the art of surfing is about the different elements that bring joy to each individual in the water. So, go surfing and get a real natural high!
You can experience the joy of surfing on just about any surfboard type or design. You can get the feeling of surfing from everything from a bodyboard to a skimboard, a wakeboard, a short surfboard, a long surfboard, a Standup Paddleboard, and even bodysurfing.
I love surfing and being in the water. I want to share this experience with you so that is why I am writing this article in hopes of getting someone excited about surfing.
Here is what one surfer says about sharing the surfing experience, "There is no better feeling than getting another person stoked on surfing. Truly, it does not bum me out that there are more surfers in the water these days. It just means that I have to get up earlier in the morning. When I saw this man rise on a wave for the first time, I felt as if I had gotten up on a wave for the first time." -Shaun Tomson. Surfer's Code.
I grew up in Laguna Beach and it continually surprises me that I don't see more Laguna Ticks, as the locals are called, in the water and on the beach every day. Yes, there are a myriad of reason to avoid the beach when it's windy, when it's raining, when it's too hot or too cold, the sun burns, but there are so many better reasons to find the reason to be on the beach and in the water on those days that I can't stay away. It's like a wonderful natural high. With the ocean and the surf as your friend, you are set for life.
You don't have to be a pro surfer to enjoy surfing. It's too bad that most all surfing movies show the professionals doing all of these wild and difficult maneuvers in waves that most surfers can't and will never ride. Most of us mere mortals can have fun riding waves that are only one foot or maybe 3 to 5 feet on the face of the wave. Most of the movies send the wrong message to the general public because the waves are scary and beyond the capability of 99% + of all the surfers in the world.
So, forget the big surf and go to the beach and ride the little to moderate sized waves that God created for all of us to enjoy. Ride you boogieboard or your soft surfboard. Go out and have fun,which you will. If you really get hooked on the sport of surfing then you can graduate to the bigger waves, but that takes practice, lots of time in the water, physical stamina, and the will and determination to get better. Most of us just want to feel comfortable and have fun riding the friendly waves.
Here is what one of my friends recently told me, " A friend asked if I enjoyed retracing my steps, going slow, riding mushy waves... For me, there was never a pro career and never will be. Surfing is a vocation for me and my job is to share my love for the sea, for the water and the spirit that I find with others, one way or another. It's not about "liking" it. It's that I can't imagine not doing it". This is the feeling of love that will build in you from surfing. You will grow to love it and it will become irresistible.
In the opening paragraph of this article I wrote, "Surfing is Aloha. Surfing is Freedom. Surfing is Living. Surfing is Stoke. Surfing is a Feeling. Surfing is Happiness. Surfing is like having a Love Affair. Surfing is in your Heart. Surfing is Love. Surfing is Wonderful. Surfing is God Given. Surfing is Life.
When you discover surfing, you will experience all of these feelings. Now, it may not be immediate, but if you go to the beach on a warm sunny day with warm water or wearing a wet suit that keeps you warm, you will get the taste of what it is all about. You will see many people from the smallest kids to senior citizens playing in the water, riding waves on various surfing devices, all of them with a smile on their face. They are silently feeling the warm inner feelings of surfing. However, they will also become very expressive and sometimes yell and shout when they ride a good wave.
The waves are a special gift of God that gives the surfer the feelings of happiness, love, excitement, feelings that you are free, that you are alive, and that your are surfing life. You are experiencing Aloha, which is all about love and happiness and the sharing of these warm feelings with everyone you encounter. This is what Duke Kahanamoku promoted.
Surfing is "stoke", which is a surfing term that means excitement. When you get involved in wave riding and surfing, you will feel the stoke! Surfing is wonderful, it grows in your heart and becomes like a love affair.
How can I explain surfing in one word? WOW!
So my friends, don't stay out of the water on those cloudy days or when the surf isn't just perfect. Go to the beach, take a walk, get in the water, ride those little small mushy waves, and have fun. Take the wonderful feelings you get from surfing and fill your life and relationships with them.
Surf Life for the rest of your life and feel the stoke!
Oak Street Surf was founded by Chuck Herpick, a Stanford graduate
and former Naval Aviator, an accomplished surfer who has spent his
lifetime in or near the ocean surfing most of the California and Hawaii
breaks over the many years.
Oak Street Surf is an online, one stop, surf shop representing the latest surfboard products. You can get a good review of top of the line surfboard types and designs including bodyboards, skimboards, Custom SUPs, longboards, and shortboards.
Chuck has been a friend and associate with legendary surfer Tom Morey who invented the Morey Boogie Board. Together, he and Tom have designed and made many different types of soft and hard surfboards and other surfing products.
Chuck believes that surfing, whether it is bodysurfing, boogie boarding, board surfing, skimboarding or riding a Standup Paddleboard (SUP) will change your life forever. You will be able to apply the love you will obtain from surfing to everything you do and will learn how to Surf Life! What a joy!!
Oak Street Surf is an online, one stop, surf shop representing the latest surfboard products. You can get a good review of top of the line surfboard types and designs including bodyboards, skimboards, Custom SUPs, longboards, and shortboards.
Chuck has been a friend and associate with legendary surfer Tom Morey who invented the Morey Boogie Board. Together, he and Tom have designed and made many different types of soft and hard surfboards and other surfing products.
Chuck believes that surfing, whether it is bodysurfing, boogie boarding, board surfing, skimboarding or riding a Standup Paddleboard (SUP) will change your life forever. You will be able to apply the love you will obtain from surfing to everything you do and will learn how to Surf Life! What a joy!!
