I started surfing in the late 1970s, Thrusters were just coming out around that time. I really didn't realize how important surfboard shape was and how much the shape of your surfboard had to do with the way you surfed. For some reason I thought I could surf well on any board in any condition.
Well after 30 years of surfing, I have owned probably 50 surfboards. You name it I owned it. When I lived and surfed in Hawaii I tried several shapes of surfboards. I like a surfboard that gives me plenty of float, thats easy to catch waves and one that I can just slam the lip. Not all surfboards did this for me. Of course it can have plenty to do with your ability and the wave you are trying to surf.
Living in Florida for several years I was privileged to be able to get advice from plenty of surfers and shapers that are world class. Meaning they are professionals and they pretty much knew what they were talking about. They lived and breathed surfing. They pretty much surfed everyday all over the world. They could take a look at you and tell if you were to far forward on your surfboard. They could tell what type of surfboard and what type of wave that you might excel on.
Several times surfers asked me if I had ever tried a fish surfboard, I am not sure why but I was opposed to it. Some of them actually looked funny to me and I wasn't used to that type of surfboard. I finally went to a surfboard shaper, we sat down and discussed what type of surfboard would improve my surfing ability. The rest is history. The surfers dubbed my surfboard the magic surfboard. It glided over flat sections, it caught waves on days when other surfers were so frustrated they got out of the water.
Granted when it got over six feet I put my fish surfboard away and brought out my gun. But most of the time where I lived, I surfed on the fish. If you are wanting to improve your surfing ability you might want to try a fish surfboard I am glad I did.
