Greg Long surfs some of the biggest waves the planet has to offer. He’s got a certain confidence about him that can only come from a serious amount of introspection and limit testing. Greg spends his life preparing himself for those moments where he’s “riding down the face of the next greatest, biggest wave of your life… or the one that could end it.” In all his years of chasing waves that could kill him, he’s learned to deal with fear a little differently than most.
