We took Bruce Irons down to Mex for a Stab trip back in August.
We wanted to hang out and see him surf waves under six feet. We wanted
to see him move, we wanted that small-wave style we all fell in love
with back in the Campaign days. He was in good spirits and he
was down to surf alongside Nick Rosza. Everything was going swimmingly
until a purple blob showed up on maps. A swell was headed for Fiji and
it was at that point we lost Bruce’s attention. He left early with an
eye on Cloudbreak’s third reef. Before he left, we rolled tape as we
went searching for waves. Bruce is from that generation of surfers who
say how they feel and are immune to the social barbs. He was as candid
as always and we enjoyed his insight as much as ever.
Film/Edit by Chris Papaleo
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