Wooden surfboards have been making a comeback on the beaches since their disappearance in the fifties, when foam boards became the standard. Many see these beautiful wood creations as a green alternative to their foam counterpart, and are attracted by the hip new look. If you are interested in buying an expensive wooden surfboard what should you be looking for? Here are some pitfalls that have led to sorry buyers posting sad reviews on the internet.
Finboxes leaking: There is a thread on surfermag about a 'wooden board' which leaked at the fin box, staining the bottom planking, and leading to the user selling his new board in disappointment. Wooden boards flex, and wood is naturally designed to do this, trees need to handle high winds. However plastic flexes less, and where these two mediums meet cracks will inevitable appear, making a leak in the surfboard. It is better to choose a board with glassed on or glassed IN fins.
No vent: Novice wooden surfboard builders tend to omit a vent, objecting to their non 'traditional' looks, air expands inside the board on a hot day and will delaminate the board. The whole board will literally 'blow up' like a balloon. There are those boardbuilders who install tiny vents which need to be operated with a key, again this is vanity, to limit the visual impact of the vent. This could lead to problems as you rummage around in your car dashboard looking for your key, and then try to operate this key with possibly cold hands which are not used to the micro movements , after surfing, which had the body all geared up for hard physical exercise. The best vent to choose for your wooden surfboard is a big hand operated one with an 'o' ring, which can be undone as soon as you exit the water.
Butt joins: this is another common mistake made by budding new wooden board manufacturers. A butt join is a join between two planks which is at ninety degrees straight across the plank. When the board flexes, pressure mounts at this type of join, and eventually develops a leak. When this leak is fixed another leak soon develops in the same spot, because of the pressure which still works on this spot. Look for a board with full length planking or with slash joins. Slash joins run diagonally across between the planks and will handle the build up of pressure.
On the subject of joins, avoid boards which have lots of butt joins all crowded in the middle of the board. Such a board is just asking for trouble.
Wood grain criss crossing every which way: This is a widespread problem. Tail blocks, nose blocks and rails are the most common places for this type of problem. As the board flexes the grain running in one direction will meet a block with grain running across. this will cause another build up of pressure. Criss crossing grain will work in a sandwich type layered surfboard such as the 'parallel profile' designs by Roy Stewart, but not in hollow construction which has the skin joined by a rail at ninety degrees to it. Such a board will develop problems, as was found in a recent case which went to court, after a couple bought an expensive surfboard from a supposedly reputable manufacturer only to find that the board cracked at the rail.
Glass cloth: Wood grain is naturally resilient so there is absolutely no reason why there has to be glass cloth on a wooden surfboard. If the cloth is used to 'seal' the board or hold it together then there is a problem with the construction. A wooden board (with the exception of balsa, which is similar to foam and needs a cloth layer) should be able to surf without a cloth layer. Glass cloth is a habit left over from the foam and glass era, and it speeds up production,as the board does not have to be as accurately and finely shaped before the cloth is laid. The cloth then provides a fairing layer. Glass cloth on wooden boards is bad for similar reasons as mentioned above. Glass is rigid, wood is flexible. Eventually the cloth will lift and make a 'bubble' underneath, which will fill with water... The best wooden surfboards are finished with resin or oil. No Glass.
And last but not least, design: Wood is heavier than foam. Foam boards have developed their shape to be specific for foam. Wooden surfboards are a different beast. As a rule of thumb add at least two feet to the foam board design you are surfing currently, to make up for the lowered buoyancy. Be prepared for a heavier board.
