At thousands of beaches around the world, surfers fly across the water along the faces of waves materializing out of the blue. Some cut fast turns in a blur of spray, others glide smoothly down the line of the wave with ease. The balance, timing, and coordination of these watermen is obvious to all, but what can't be seen from the beach are the many other skills of surfing that those wave riders have learned, and which have brought them to be on that wave, on that day, riding that board that they make look so easy to use.
If you are going to learn to surf, then understand that even though you might ride a wave after a few tries, surfing is not something you can learn in a day or even a year. Surfing is a sport you can continue to learn more about throughout your entire life. It is a great idea to take a lesson from a professional surf instructor who will not only be able to show you how to catch and ride waves, but also begin to explain to you what it truly means to be a surfer.
In addition to getting you out into the water and up on wave, a good surfing instructor should spend a little time filling you in on some common surfing knowledge. A quick history lesson on the origins of the sport, different ways to ride waves, and the purposes of the various surfboard shapes are some things that every surfer is familiar with, and your instructor should introduce to you.Your surf instructor is also a great resource for information regarding the wave and ocean conditions at the beach you are about to surf at.
Knowing the current conditions and how they compare to conditions typical of the location, as well as knowing what causes those conditions are things every surfer must begin to understand. It is also good to hear a few of the general characteristics of waves and swell conditions at other area beaches, and in other parts of the world. For example South Padre Island, in tropical South Texas, typically has a great short period swell. Pacific seaboard beaches frequently receive a medium to long period swell. The differences in swell period have a profound effect on the feel of the waves, and therefore on proper board selection. Swell conditions that produce great surf in one location might not create ride-able waves in another.
Every surfer also develops an understanding of the wind and weather in general, and how they effect wave conditions. Learning about how weather both locally and far away effects waves is also part of learning to surf. For example an offshore wind will hold the wave up in a near vertical face for much longer than an onshore wind, which will push the top of the wave over faster. Storms far away send swell toward your beach at different angles, which has a profound effect on how the waves break when reaching the shore.
Your surf instructor will be able to give you basic information regarding what kind of weather information to look for, where to find it, and how to interpret it, which will help you to learn more about when and where to find good waves to surf on your own. There are many great resources available to surfers to help gather information and predict wave conditions. The internet is a fantastic tool for researching swell, weather, and wave conditions around the world, and there are many websites that provide great information and help interpret the data for surfers.
Of course in the end, everybody just wants a few good rides. So if you want to catch the best waves, then get out in the water, talk to local pros, and get online, and eventually you too will have the knowledge and experience to know exactly which beach to go to, what board to ride, and were to sit in the water to catch the best waves on any given day.
