One:
Get it down on the land. A lot of people feel as though surfing is much easier than it looks when in reality it is much harder than it looks. People watching good surfers think that there is nothing too it, this is because they are probably up on the rocks or on the beach watching, away from the cold water, violent undertoe, and the huge waves, ready to swallow you up if you make a big mistake.
Two:
When on land you should learn how you should paddle. Have your instructor go through everything from slight paddling, to being able to paddle for your life before you catch the wave of your dreams. If you get the speed down outside the water, it will be easier to know what you are shooting for in terms of strength of the stroke in the water.
Three:
After you get the paddling down, you should learn how to balance on the wave. I knows it seems like it would be easy, but humor me and listen. With the waves, and the wind, and the under-toe it is important that you learn that you must always stay low on the board once up. Pop up as soon as possible, with the swiftest motion possible, and after that focus on staying low. A lot of people pop up and get excited they are standing, and stand up tall, this will only cause you to lose your balance and fall into the ocean. Goodluck!
