You are sitting on the sand, just gazing at the beautiful horizon
and thinking to yourself how waves are created in the ocean. This is a
mystery to many individuals although if you know your science well, you
know exactly how they are made. Waves begin with wind. There are strong
offshore storms which gather enough wind to blow on the sea. This starts
the process of surface disturbance, or what we would call waves.
Smaller waves can add to the wave generation. Also, you need to take
into mind the strength of the wind gust because this ties directly in
with the size of the wave. On most weather maps, you will see isobars
that are so close together, indicating stronger winds. The smaller waves
are usually generated facing the area in which the wind is blowing.A flat Sea Surface
It begins with a flat sea surface. Depending upon how long the wind blows on the flat sea surface, it will have a stronger effect on the ripples. Also, if the wind is stronger, these ripples may reach even bigger sizes. If you look out in the sea, the waves may seem like small lumps but with velocity, they will grow larger.
Wind Creating a Larger Swell
The power of the wind is strong and any waves being blown upon is under the direct power of the wind. This simply means that it is a domino effect. Smaller waves will push others along. The wind can easily catch the small waves easier than with a flat surface, because they protrude closer to the sky. The actually size of the wave obviously depends on the speed of the wind. While a wind speed which isn't as powerful begins pushing the waves, it won't be enough to create a monster wave.
Most waves that are created will have their own speeds and life periods. For example, the waves which last longer and are quicker will move in front of the slow waves. As the waves travel away from the very source of the wind, they will start to gather into something called "swell lines". Some can be tightly packed together and in case you notice this, be cautious when surfing in the area. You could also wait until the sea is calm.
A wave that cannot be harnessed by the wind any longer, is often called a "ground swell". Usually, what affects the size of the swell depends on a number of factors such as the speed of the wind, lifespan of the wind cycle, and the spacing in between the waves.
