Question :
From time to time I get questions about surfing, so I have decided to start a series on my blog called Surf Q & A (such a creative title, isn't it?). I will file them under the Tricks and Tips tab on the top menu. Feel free to send any questions you have, surfing or other, to me via my contact form. This question came from Sophia.
Answer:
I started surfing as a kid, but didn't get serious about it until high school. From that time on, I have surfed almost everyday (at least 4-5 days a week) and some days I surf two or three times.I think it was somewhere around my second (maybe third) serious year when I could ride most waves, big(ish) and small, beach breaks and reefs (although not super big and scary waves, for sure). To do so, I went to the beach everyday and tried to practice in all conditions. I still do this now. I realize, though, that I am kind of addicted and I think the average amount of days most people surf is between 1-3 times a week.
Many surfers will only surf when it's good, but I think you become a well rounded surfer when you ride in all types of conditions. I love surfing when the wind is howling onshore and the waves are 2 feet because it's something different and it challenges me. Surf many different kinds of waves (beach breaks, reef breaks, and point breaks) as well, so you can learn how various waves break.
I also think it's important to commit yourself to learning the sport inside and out. When I got serious about surfing, I read every magazine and book I could get my hands on and watched all the movies I could. I practiced out of the water by riding an indo and skate board.
I've never been the most talented or most athletic person, ever, in a group of people, but I believe you can become great at something if you put your mind to it and practice like crazy!
