We Are Surfers: Surf Books

The book that documents Hokule'a's voyage of hope

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<h1 style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333; font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 22px; line-height: 1.1; margin: 20px 0px 10px;">
Patagonia launched a must-have book on the traditional Polynesian voyaging canoe, smartly blending words and personal experiences with glamorous photos and illustrations.</h1>
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The story of the original Hokule'a is simultaneously epic and tragic, beautiful and bittersweet. In a way, it is a mirror of life, with its unexpected ups and downs, celebrations and disappointments.</div>
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Hokulea means "Star of Gladness" in Hawaiian. The original Hokulea was launched on March 8, 1975. Three years later, the double-hulled sailing canoe capsized and one of its crew members, the legendary <strong style="box-sizing: border-box;">Eddie Aikau</strong>, paddled his surfboard back to land to get help, but despite all efforts, he was never seen again.</div>
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Today, after being rebuilt, the Hokule'a is one of the guardians of our planet, a seasoned veteran of the seas which navigates the oceans with its experiential educational programs.</div>
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The Hokule'a is, and always be a living organism that knows the corners of the world, and the secrets of the liquid territory like few other objects and species.</div>
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"Malama Honua: Hokule'a - A Voyage Of Hope" is a luxurious and content-rich hardcover book that will inspire Hawaiians and non-Hawaiians to explore the enchantments of nature, through one of the ultimate symbols of Polynesian culture.</div>
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All ten chapters, four photo galleries, and multiple crew stories reveal the Hokule'a in all its glory. You'll find "local voices" sharing their knowledge and experiences on several critical topics, including solar power, wind energy, agroecology, tortoise restoration, waste recycling, but also relevant historical and environmental facts and figures.</div>
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Jennifer Allen (author),‎ John McCaskill (illustrator),‎ and John Bilderback (photographer) found the perfect formula for keeping the reader continuously entertained.</div>
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The 352-page publication released by Patagonia documents Hokule'a's three-year journey across the globe to raise awareness and suggest solutions for climate change.</div>
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For those who still live thinking that climate change is nothing but fake news, the book encourages and invite them to open their eyes and minds to the facts that are in front of us.</div>
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"This mission of the navigators on the Hokule'a speaks to all of us. In Hawaii, they call it '<strong style="box-sizing: border-box;">Aloha</strong>.' In South Africa, we say 'Ubuntu.' When you live this quality, you are known for your generosity. Ubuntu means that you recognize that you can't exist in isolation," Archbishop Emeritus Desmond Tutu writes in the foreword.</div>
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The Hokulea is 62 feet in length, and 20 feet in width; it's a stunning vessel that represents the Polynesian culture. With its 12-14 crew members, the canoe set sail from Hawaii in 2014 and visited over 150 internationals ports and locations.</div>
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For the 40,000 nautical mile-long journey, the Hokulea navigators used ancient instrument navigating techniques based on the positioning of the sun, stars, winds, waves, and seabirds.</div>
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"<a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1938340698/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=1938340698&linkCode=as2&tag=peaceandsurf-20&linkId=cacd31fa1ad6bfad2862fa5d656a44c7" style="background: transparent; box-sizing: border-box; color: #428bca; text-decoration-line: none !important;" title="Malama Honua: Hokule'a - A Voyage Of Hope"><strong style="box-sizing: border-box;">Malama Honua: Hokule'a - A Voyage Of Hope</strong></a>" is neither a coffee table book nor a book for bedtime. It is a gift to be tasted outdoor when the sun is shining, and the ocean's blue. And we can assure you that this book will restore your hope in humankind.</div>
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The book that documents Hokule'a's voyage of hope

Patagonia launched a must-have book on the traditional Polynesian voyaging canoe, smartly blending words and personal experiences with ...

The best surf forecasting books

Best Of, Surf Books, Surf Shop 6:57 PM

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<h2>
Surf forecasting books are encyclopedias of surf science. It's easy 
to understand how swell models work and how waves are formed until they 
reach our shores.</h2>
Modern swell forecasts are accurate surf reports. If you're willing 
to know when and where you should head for the surf sessions of a 
lifetime, it's important to consult wave height forecasts, wind speed 
and direction analysis, and wave period charts.<br />
<br />
Today, you can learn how to forecast great surfing conditions for 
your region. In a couple of days, and with a couple of surf forecasting 
books, you are able to make your own maritime forecast.<br />
<br />
Low and high pressure systems, wind force, fetch, tides, shoaling, 
refraction, water temperatures, swell decay, steepness, trough, 
wavelength and bathymetry are some of the surf forecasting concepts that
 can be easily learned after reading these surf and weather books.<br />
<br />
"<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/059530365X/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=059530365X&linkCode=as2&tag=wearsu02-20&linkId=Y4V2ACER22JGXYVO" target="_blank" title="The Wetsand Wavecast Guide to Surf Forecasting"><strong>The Wetsand Wavecast Guide to Surf Forecasting</strong></a>"
 is one of the most well-written surf science books. The author, Nathan 
Todd Cool, shows how you can make surf forecasts with simple 
calculations and free publicly available data.<br />
<br />
"<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0824839544/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=0824839544&linkCode=as2&tag=wearsu02-20&linkId=7C26HBINMAQ2VLX7" rel="alternate" target="_blank" title="Surf Science: An Introduction to Waves for Surfing"><strong>Surf Science: An Introduction to Waves for Surfing</strong></a>",
 by Tony Butt, Paul Russell and Rick Grigg, will help surfers to predict
 surf. Where do waves come from? What makes everyone different? Why do 
some peel nicely and others just close out? These questions are raised 
and answered in this surf forecasting book.<br />
<br />
"<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0906720583/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=0906720583&linkCode=as2&tag=wearsu02-20&linkId=AU24DULTCACP3GKV" target="_blank" title="The Surfer's Guide To Waves, Coasts And Climates"><strong>The Surfer's Guide To Waves, Coasts And Climates</strong></a>",
 by Tony Butt, presents and explains the most relevant surf variables. 
Coastal geology, climate and big waves, coastal intervention and the 
planet cyclones and tsunamis get great answers.<br />
<br />
"<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0970684029/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=0970684029&linkCode=as2&tag=wearsu02-20&linkId=NGSGH7UKHVMPJMWD" target="_blank" title="Weather Forecasting Handbook"><strong>Weather Forecasting Handbook</strong></a>",
 by Tim Vasquez, is one of the most complete global weather books. It 
fills the gap between novice and advanced books. Get a complete overview
 about wind and wave forecasts.<br />
<br />
"<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011MCKE5A/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B011MCKE5A&linkCode=as2&tag=wearsu02-20&linkId=D3S3ERFAFP7PKCZD" target="_blank" title="Instant Wind Forecasting"><strong>Instant Wind Forecasting</strong></a>",
 by Alan Watts, is a must-have surf science book for windsurfers and 
kitesurfers, but also for surfers and bodyboards. Wind is responsible 
for making waves and this quick reference guide helps to make meaningful
 predictions based on the look of the sky and the feel of the day.<br />
<br />
Click on each surf forecasting book to buy directly from Amazon. Discover more <a href="http://wearesurfers.blogspot.com/search/label/Surf%20Books" target="_blank" title="Surf Books"><strong>surf books</strong></a>.

The best surf forecasting books

Surf forecasting books are encyclopedias of surf science. It's easy to understand how swell models work and how waves are formed unt...

"Board," the book for those who dream of learning to surf

Surf Books, Surf Shop, WeAreSurfers 3:54 PM

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<h1 style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Verdana; line-height: 1.1; margin: 20px 0px 10px;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Are you fast approaching middle age? Have you dreamed of learning to surf? David Flanagan has a wonderful story of hope and freedom for you in his latest book "Board."</span></h1>
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Anyone can learn how to stand on a surfboard and ride a wave. Surfing has nothing to do with age, gender, or origin. It is something that you sense and experience. Like someone once said, "only a surfer knows the feeling."</div>
<div style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Verdana; line-height: 22.4px; margin-bottom: 10px;">
However, when you start to feel the weight of time, the chances of becoming the surfer you dreamed of will be few. And then, there's the couch, the tasty food, and that fantastic glass of wine that keeps us in the warmth and comfort of our home.</div>
<div style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Verdana; line-height: 22.4px; margin-bottom: 10px;">
Scottish writer-journalist David Flanagan had other plans for his middle age. He had always lived close to the ocean on his home island of Orkney, an archipelago off the northeastern coast of Scotland.</div>
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He knew for decades that he had one of the most amazing surf breaks in the world - Thurso East, a perfect right-hand reef break. So, Flanagan decided he would learn how to surf. He resumed his skateboarding rides after a 30-year-gap and embarked on the unforgettable experience of walking on water.</div>
<div style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Verdana; line-height: 22.4px; margin-bottom: 10px;">
"I used to think it was just a cliché to talk about surfing being like a journey, but it undoubtedly is. In my case, I wanted a new identity, along with knowledge, confidence and a degree of power over nature and fate," David Flanagan tells in the book's epilogue.</div>
<div style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Verdana; line-height: 22.4px; margin-bottom: 10px;">
"Instead, I had the inner working of my mind completely dismantled and then rebuilt by the sea. My ego was shattered. Physically, I was pushed harder than I'd never been before."</div>
<div style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Verdana; line-height: 22.4px; margin-bottom: 10px;">
We are not surfers. We become surfers. In "<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V2K0VN8/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00V2K0VN8&linkCode=as2&tag=wearsu02-20&linkId=YSN6VCU2BGDY27LI" rel="alternate" style="background: transparent; box-sizing: border-box; color: #428bca; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank" title="Board"><strong style="box-sizing: border-box;">Board</strong></a>," Flanagan tells us precisely how it feels to become part of the wave riding tribe. With fear, happiness, frustration, redemption, friendship, instinct, and self-discovery as some of the core ingredients.</div>
<div style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Verdana; line-height: 22.4px; margin-bottom: 10px; text-align: center;">
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<img alt="Board: the surfing life story of David Flanagan" src="http://www.surfertoday.com/images/stories/boardbook.jpg" style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; height: auto; max-width: 100%; vertical-align: middle;" title="Board: the surfing life story of David Flanagan" /></div>

"Board," the book for those who dream of learning to surf

Are you fast approaching middle age? Have you dreamed of learning to surf? David Flanagan has a wonderful story of hope and freedom for y...

The best surf fitness and workout books

Best Of, Surf Books, Surf Lessons, Surf Shop 12:46 PM

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<h2>
How do you stay fit for surfing? Surf training books and guides will
 help you learn and practice the best surf fitness exercises for your 
body, at any age.</h2>
Surf fitness is the last frontier of high performance surfing. Even 
if you're not a professional, it's important to keep your body ready for
 the perfect good winter swell.<br />
<br />
Creating a simple surf-specific training routine will improve the 
overall quality of your surf session by up to 33%. Relax, you're not 
going to be a slave of complicated fitness equipment. It is only a 
matter of getting better and boosting your natural surf skills.<br />
<br />
Fortunately, there are great guides to surf fitness. Stretching, rope
 jumping, pushups, sit-ups, burpees, running, swimming, staying 
hydrated, simple diets and relaxing workout routines will definitely 
boost your metabolism for surfing and for life.<br />
<br />
<b><a href="http://a26d2qo4u6yh16aqyessx0xk9h.hop.clickbank.net/" target="_blank">Surf Training Success - Surf Fitness Program</a> </b>: The Most Comprehensive Surf Fitness Training Program Available. Months 
Of Progressive Surf Fitness Workouts, Accompanying Videos, Printable 
Picture Manuals, Shoulder Training... Everything You Need To Boost Your 
Performance In The Surf.<br />
<br />
<b><a href="http://d0559mf5zc4g-d7p6s7ph3kdxw.hop.clickbank.net/" target="_blank">Easy Surfing Fitness - Surf Training & Nutrition Guide</a> </b>: A Set Of 9 E-books And Video Training. Comprehensive Surf Fitness 
Training With Printable Manuals, Video And Surf Training Programs.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://cfb2fvpx-06t47bpvfoknat53y.hop.clickbank.net/" target="_blank"><b>Pro surf secrets</b> </a>:  Electronic Surfing Book Revealing The Tips And Stratagies That Separate Pro Surfers From The Rest Of The Surf Crew.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://88805ok730vi496irruenxnff5.hop.clickbank.net/" target="_blank"><b>Ebook Kitesurfing For Beginners :</b></a>  Reading About Kite Surfing Is Very Important. 
This Book Is Written With An Experienced Kitesurfing Instructor. This Is
 A 124 Page Long Book Which Includes Lots Of Very Important Information 
And Many Pictures.<br />
<br />
<br />
"<a href="http://amzn.to/1F128Iy" target="_blank" title="Force of Nature: Mind, Body, Soul (And, of Course, Surfing)"><b>Force of Nature: Mind, Body, Soul (And, of Course, Surfing)</b></a>",
 by big wave ambassador Laird Hamilton, is a deeply authoritative and 
cutting-edge guide to peak fitness in mind, body, soul, and surfing.<br />
<br />
"<a href="http://amzn.to/1HRYgvz" target="_blank" title="Fit to Surf : The Surfer's Guide to Strength and Conditioning"><b>Fit to Surf : The Surfer's Guide to Strength and Conditioning</b></a>",
 by Rocky Snyder, offers one of the most complete workout programs for 
surfers, with photos, plans and detailed descriptions of the physical 
exercises.<br />
<br />
"<a href="http://amzn.to/1Gfd5ve" target="_blank" title="The Art of Surfing: A Training Manual for the Developing and Competitive Surfer"><b>The Art of Surfing: A Training Manual for the Developing and Competitive Surfer</b></a>", by Raul Guisado, deepens body position and stance, techniques for paddling, biomechanics and the psychology of surfing.<br />
<br />
"<a href="http://amzn.to/1Jucj0a" target="_blank" title="The Complete Guide to Surf Fitness: The Definitive Guide to Surf Training Whatever Your Level"><b>The Complete Guide to Surf Fitness: The Definitive Guide to Surf Training Whatever Your Level</b></a>", by Lee Stanbury, guides you through exercises that can be done at home, core strength, resistance training and plyometrics.<br />
<br />
"<a href="http://amzn.to/1HRYpiz" target="_blank" title="Secrets of Power Surfing - The Power Surfing Workout"><b>Secrets of Power Surfing - The Power Surfing Workout</b></a>",
 by Dave Rearwin, offers specific exercises for surfing fitness in all 
phases of surfing, including paddling, popping up, board control and 
general flexibility and agility.<br />
<br />
"<a href="http://amzn.to/1dkWqes" target="_blank" title="The Surf Diet"><b>The Surf Diet</b></a>",
 by Chris Mo'e, incorporates the best of what numerous other diets 
offer, plus the "fail-proof" mechanism of cheat days and cheat meals, 
which account for how people eat in real life.<br />
<br />
"<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1578260787/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=1578260787&linkCode=as2&tag=wearsu02-20&linkId=R5FLLCN6AIVMV47F" target="_blank" title="Surf Flex: Flexibility, Yoga, and Conditioning Exercises for Surfers"><b>Surf Flex: Flexibility, Yoga, and Conditioning Exercises for Surfers</b></a>",
 by Paul Frediani, Peter Field Peck and Jim Lucas, features innovative 
series of exercises and stretches specifically tailored for surfers, 
like balance work, yoga, strength training and cardiovascular endurance.<br />
The Indo Board develops balance, coordination and strength while enhancing core fitness for surfers.<br />
Get an <a href="http://amzn.to/1KgtUry" target="_blank" title="Indo Board"><b>Indo Board</b></a>.

The best surf fitness and workout books

How do you stay fit for surfing? Surf training books and guides will help you learn and practice the best surf fitness exercises for you...

Three surfing health experts compile their list of tips, treatments and preventive advice

Health, Surf Books, Surf Shop 1:46 PM

<br />
By Steven Mark<br />

<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSV_fjrIJqFU_3g9AbkAKtdzVwC9wtDutF1ffYdNiKO_v6Cm9eEvGJj83EGmVLD1xnLnAOY1HPVlBiYzP-PHCR-34PsHXgevWFTn6NgSmFXPLdb5KxZG2tYqG0OY3FfWhz3BfCDkGZmOw/s1600/8-2-SURF-SURVIVAL_cover-art.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSV_fjrIJqFU_3g9AbkAKtdzVwC9wtDutF1ffYdNiKO_v6Cm9eEvGJj83EGmVLD1xnLnAOY1HPVlBiYzP-PHCR-34PsHXgevWFTn6NgSmFXPLdb5KxZG2tYqG0OY3FfWhz3BfCDkGZmOw/s1600/8-2-SURF-SURVIVAL_cover-art.jpg" width="184" /></a></div>
<div class="dropcap">
There
 are plenty of surfing books in different genres, from how-to to 
history, from who's who to where to go. Now you can add "health" to the 
list with publication of "<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1616083182/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=1616083182&linkCode=as2&tag=peaceandsurf-20&linkId=U5MDLXGCTB5YNQUN" target="_blank">Surf Survival: The Surfer's Health Handbook</a>," 
authored by three experts: Drs. Andrew Nathanson and Clayton Everline 
and pioneering surfing health expert Dr. Mark Renneker. Their collected 
medical and surfing experience includes big-wave riding in Hawaii, 
California and around the world; research papers published in 
peer-reviewed and popular journals; and work at surf contests at 
Pipeline on Oahu's North Shore and Mavericks in Northern California. As 
surfers themselves, the doctors kept not only the physical maladies 
common to wave-riders in mind, but also the mentality that can make 
surfers difficult to treat.</div>
<div class="dropcap">
<br /></div>
<img alt="20110802 d1mugs" height="283" src="http://www.workstar.com/images/20110802_d1mugs.jpg" style="border-image: initial; border: 1px solid #000000; float: right; margin-left: 10px;" width="243" />"A
 lot of surfers are so enmeshed in surfing that they're not going to 
listen to a doctor who tells them not to surf," said Everline, sports 
medicine doctor at WorkStar Injury Recovery Center, a clinic in Ewa 
Beach. "We aim to work with that state of mind and at least try to get 
them to functionally brace or work around an injury."<br />

At nearly 300 pages, <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1616083182/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=1616083182&linkCode=as2&tag=peaceandsurf-20&linkId=U5MDLXGCTB5YNQUN" target="_blank">"Surf Survival:The Surfer's Health Handbook"  (Skyhorse Publishing, $14.95) </a>offers a comprehensive look at health and 
medical issues related to surfing, including conditioning, first aid, 
CPR techniques, big-wave hazards and how to prepare for a "surfari" to 
remote locales where health care facilities are lacking and where you 
might need to know how to make an arm sling out of a T-shirt and some 
safety pins. The book is user-friendly, with photos and sketches 
demonstrating conditioning exercises and rescue techniques.<br />

It is also a bit scary, with graphic photos of deep lacerations 
caused by sharp fins and board noses. "Those fins on your surfboard are 
the biggest teeth in the ocean," said Everline. The authors recommend 
using rubber-edged fins and nose guards.<br />
<br />

Of particular interest to local surfers and beachgoers is a section 
on jellyfish. The book says vinegar, a commonly cited home remedy for 
jellyfish stings, has no effect on the type of box jellyfish found in 
Hawaii waters. Instead, flushing the affected area with hot water is 
advised.<br />
<br />

"That may or may not explain why urination is a frequent home 
remedy," Everline said. "There's no scientific evidence to back that 
there's any chemical in urine is effective, it's just that warm water is
 the best pain relief."<br />

"Surf Survival" also contains a foreward by noted surfer and board 
shaper Gerry Lopez and anecdotes and case studies. Renneker, who founded
 the Surfer's Medical Association in 1986 and co-wrote a column about 
health issues for Surfer magazine, said being a "surf doc" made 
collecting such stories easy.<br />

<img alt="20110802 injuries 1" class="" height="366" smartload="3" src="http://www.workstar.com/images/20110802_injuries%201.jpg" style="float: right; margin: 5px 5px 5px 10px; opacity: 1;" width="300" />"You're
 always giving curbside consultations or beachside consultations, so you
 see a lot of stuff," he said. "There's no shortage of maladies caused 
by surfing out there."<br />
<br />

Renneker wrote a chapter on surfer's ear, a bony growth in the ear 
canal. Although the book mentions that cold water appears to be a factor
 in the affliction, Renneker said Hawaii surfers are also susceptible 
because they often surf in windy conditions and don't wear much 
protective clothing.<br />
<br />

"It's how cold your head gets, whether by air temperature and/or wind
 evaporation," he said. "Wearing earplugs helps, wearing a surf cap 
helps."<br />

Renneker surfs regularly at Mavericks and wrote a chapter on big-wave
 surfing. "For me it was sort of a wonderful experience from the 
perspective of being a big-wave rider from a physician's perspective," 
he said.<br />

Renneker said there is anecdotal evidence suggesting that big-wave 
surfers are at risk for brain trauma, a syndrome he credited to Hawaii 
researcher Robert Speers.<br />

"Surfers who fall in big waves, they tell you they see stars," he 
said. "But if you do that a lot, that's like playing football without a 
helmet … and then all these years later, what happens to all these 
people?"<br />

Everline grew up surfing in New Jersey, got away from the sport 
during medical school, then vowed that "I would surf no matter what" 
when he started his medical residency. He wrote an article about surf 
health issues for the Journal of Strength and Conditioning, which led 
him to Nathanson, a San Diego native and emergency physician at Brown 
University in Rhode Island, who had written an article in the American 
Journal of Sports Medicine about injuries among competitive surfers.<br />
<br />

They then linked up with Renneker, whose columns were compiled in the
 book "Sick Surfers Ask the Surf Docs" in 1993. A professor of family 
medicine at the University of California, San Francisco, Renneker said 
there is still more to be written about surf health.<br />
<br />

"The ultimate, comprehensive handbook of surf medicine has yet to be 
written. This is pretty damn close. You learn more than you ever needed 
to know about some things, and other things you learn that you didn't 
know you needed to learn."<br />

Three surfing health experts compile their list of tips, treatments and preventive advice

By Steven Mark There are plenty of surfing books in different genres, from how-to to history, from who's who to where to go. Now...

Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell: A True Story of Violence, Corruption, and the Soul of Surfing

Surf Books, Surf Shop 9:26 PM

<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin7gChJq6fGcnHkdyGBUTVJjX24puksKd4iB3_8NbLd5lGwT7r2a0v4_Mkk5eTbxegBum2sd-BkJutJWPlkYpNcXhUTJQM7m-8Qm1anRc5q9Ed0jSW-U-8EL0RHcEKC55P9G24w1ppcf4/s1600/index.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin7gChJq6fGcnHkdyGBUTVJjX24puksKd4iB3_8NbLd5lGwT7r2a0v4_Mkk5eTbxegBum2sd-BkJutJWPlkYpNcXhUTJQM7m-8Qm1anRc5q9Ed0jSW-U-8EL0RHcEKC55P9G24w1ppcf4/s1600/index.jpg" /></a></div>
<em>Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell, </em>is
 surfer and former war reporter Chas Smith’s wild and unflinching look 
at the high-stakes world of surfing on Oahu’s North Shore—a riveting, 
often humorous, account of beauty, greed, danger, and crime.<br />
<br />
<div id="iframeContent">
For 
two months every winter, when Pacific storms make landfall, swarms of 
mainlanders, Brazilians, Australians, and Europeans flock to Oahu’s 
paradisiacal North Shore in pursuit of some of the greatest waves on 
earth for surfing’s Triple Crown competition. Chas Smith reveals how 
this influx transforms a sleepy, laid-back strip of coast into a 
lawless, violent, drug-addled, and adrenaline-soaked mecca.<br />
Smith 
captures this exciting and dangerous place where locals, outsiders, the 
surf industry, and criminal elements clash in a fascinating look at 
class, race, power, money, and crime, set within one of the most 
beautiful places on earth. The result is a breathtaking blend of crime 
and adventure that captures the allure and wickedness of this idyllic 
golden world.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<h2>
Product Details</h2>
<div class="content">

<ul>
<li><b>Hardcover:</b> 256 pages</li>
<li><b>Publisher:</b> It Books (November 19, 2013)</li>
<li><b>Language:</b> English</li>
<li><b>ISBN-10:</b> 0062202529</li>
<li><b>ISBN-13:</b> 978-0062202529</li>
<li><b>
    Product Dimensions: 
    </b>
    9.4 x 6 x 0.9 inches
    </li>
<li><b>Shipping Weight:</b> 14.4 ounces</li>
</ul>
<div>
<a href="http://amzn.to/1tjPIqb" target="_blank"><img alt="Buy this book from Amazon" src="http://www.surfertoday.com/images/books/buyfromamazon.gif" /></a></div>
</div>
</div>

Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell: A True Story of Violence, Corruption, and the Soul of Surfing

Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell, is surfer and former war reporter Chas Smith’s wild and unflinching look at the high-stakes world o...

Top 7 Surf Books of all time

Surf Books, Surf Shop, Top 10 9:06 PM

<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<strong>Libraries are not a surfer’s natural habitat, and good surfing books are on the endangered list.</strong></div>
<br />
Thanks to the dedicated work of a few intrepid surfers and eloquent wave
 enthusiasts, there are few rare surfing reads worth searching for.<br />
Here’s my top ten surf book discoveries:<br />
<br />
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-vPXJD1GbjvK92oRrILkzu363W41EAa2m8yGtN75Xe-PbLYpOa9bNNLz9l4hGMr1QPoUwBmm54LIYYueaTpsq82HsttJgYXZ8Pe6zx1n8kD2c3mHr48AYGkB_cVzkSUZGHqs4XnXuEHk/s1600/breath-tim-winton.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-vPXJD1GbjvK92oRrILkzu363W41EAa2m8yGtN75Xe-PbLYpOa9bNNLz9l4hGMr1QPoUwBmm54LIYYueaTpsq82HsttJgYXZ8Pe6zx1n8kD2c3mHr48AYGkB_cVzkSUZGHqs4XnXuEHk/s1600/breath-tim-winton.jpg" /></a></div>
<strong>1. <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/search/ref=as_li_qf_sp_sr_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&index=aps&keywords=Breath%20by%20Tim%20Winton&linkCode=as2&tag=peaceandsurf-20&linkId=WLLERZ7ZDJBPBUBJ">Breath by Tim Winton</a></strong><strong>:</strong><br />
<strong><br /></strong>
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/search/ref=as_li_qf_sp_sr_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&index=aps&keywords=Breath%20by%20Tim%20Winton&linkCode=as2&tag=peaceandsurf-20&linkId=WLLERZ7ZDJBPBUBJ">Breath</a>
 is my favourite surf fiction book ever. It’s a coming of age story, in 
which Pikelet, a young boy on the West coast of Oz, discovers the thrill
 of surfing. As the title implies the book has a ‘breath’ theme 
throughout.<br />
<br />
As a kid, Pikelet and his best mate ‘Loonie’ would scare onlookers by
 seeing who could hold their breath underwater the longest. As a teen, 
the thrill of big wave riding caused a few heavy hold downs. And 
asphyxiation, resuscitation and didgeridoos all played their part in 
Pikelet’s adult life.<br />
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/search/ref=as_li_qf_sp_sr_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&index=aps&keywords=Breath%20by%20Tim%20Winton&linkCode=as2&tag=peaceandsurf-20&linkId=WLLERZ7ZDJBPBUBJ" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Buy this book from Amazon" border="0" src="http://www.surfertoday.com/images/books/buyfromamazon.gif" /></a>With experience and emotion drawn from the West Oz ocean, Tim Winton 
has conjured mythical waves for all to enjoy in Breath. From the fun 
peelers at The Point to the mind-blowing gut-wrenching Nautilus, there’s
 something for every surfer to soak up.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="wp-caption alignleft" id="attachment_1597" style="width: 185px;">
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0307278913/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=0307278913&linkCode=as2&tag=peaceandsurf-20&linkId=T2LKGERN2Z56GOJI" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="the dawn patrol don winslow" class="size-full wp-image-1597" height="269" src="http://www.surferdad.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/the-dawn-patrol-don-winslow.jpg" width="175" /></a><span id="goog_1377917409"></span><span id="goog_1377917410"></span><a href="https://www.blogger.com/"></a></div>
<strong><br /></strong>
<strong>2. <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0307278913/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=0307278913&linkCode=as2&tag=peaceandsurf-20&linkId=T2LKGERN2Z56GOJI">The Dawn Patrol by Don Winslow</a></strong><strong>:</strong><br />
<strong><br /></strong>
Boone Daniels is a P.I. in boardshorts based in San Diego. He’s a 
talented sleuth by trade but a devoted surfer by nature.  Just as a 
once-in-a-lifetime swell is predicted to hit, so does a complicated case
 that Boone is compelled to take.<br />
Dead strippers, Hawaiian gangs and trafficked Mexican girls, cause 
the case to take a dark and unpredicted course. Boone gets sucked into 
an emotional whirlpool, from which only his Dawn Patrol buddies can 
rescue him. <br />
Will Boone catch the baddies and ride the giant swell, or will the case and his life get sucked into an eternal darkness?<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0307278913/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=0307278913&linkCode=as2&tag=peaceandsurf-20&linkId=T2LKGERN2Z56GOJI" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Buy this book from Amazon" border="0" src="http://www.surfertoday.com/images/books/buyfromamazon.gif" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<strong><br /></strong>
<br />
<div class="wp-caption alignleft" id="attachment_1594" style="width: 185px;">
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1585421774/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=1585421774&linkCode=as2&tag=peaceandsurf-20&linkId=4JD7GDRBB2O6GMXN" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="in search of captain zero allan weisbecker" class="size-full wp-image-1594" height="249" src="http://www.surferdad.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/in-search-of-captain-zero-allan-weisbecker.jpg" width="175" /></a></div>
<strong>3. <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1585421774/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=1585421774&linkCode=as2&tag=peaceandsurf-20&linkId=4JD7GDRBB2O6GMXN">In Search of Captain Zero: A Surfer’s Road Trip Beyond the End of the Road by Allan Weisbecker</a></strong><strong>:</strong><br />
<strong><br /></strong>
It’s hard to believe but <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1585421774/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=1585421774&linkCode=as2&tag=peaceandsurf-20&linkId=4JD7GDRBB2O6GMXN">In Search of Captain Zero</a>
 is actually a memoir not a work of fiction. As Allan Weisbecker 
nostalgically recalls his drug smuggling mishaps, Mexican misadventure 
and a melancholy mission to find his old best buddy ‘Captain Zero’.<br />
From the safe haven of his seaside home in New York to the lawless 
limits of Central America. Weisbecker’s journey is packed full of deep 
thoughts, remote waves, colourful characters, and travelling challenges.<br />
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1585421774/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=1585421774&linkCode=as2&tag=peaceandsurf-20&linkId=4JD7GDRBB2O6GMXN" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Buy this book from Amazon" border="0" src="http://www.surfertoday.com/images/books/buyfromamazon.gif" /></a>His mission is to find long lost friend and fellow surfer Christopher
 Conner AKA Captain Zero. He fears Chris has ‘gone off the rails’. 
Considering the extraordinary lifestyles they lead together during the 
‘good times’ this could be bad, possibly fatal. Hope is all Weisbecker 
has to go on.<br />
A true tale, of true surfers living exotic surfing lifestyles, but all good stories come to an end.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<strong><br /></strong>
<br />
<div class="wp-caption alignleft" id="attachment_1590" style="width: 185px;">
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EQ8J4KY/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00EQ8J4KY&linkCode=as2&tag=peaceandsurf-20&linkId=F7AO7ZEHJNQV2L3G" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Amazing Surf Stories by Alex Wade" class="size-full wp-image-1590" height="275" src="http://www.surferdad.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/amazing-surf-stories-alex-wade.jpg" width="175" /></a></div>
<strong>4. <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EQ8J4KY/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00EQ8J4KY&linkCode=as2&tag=peaceandsurf-20&linkId=F7AO7ZEHJNQV2L3G">Amazing Surf Stories: Tales of Incredible Waves and Remarkable Riders by Alex Wade</a></strong><strong>:</strong><br />
<strong><br /></strong>
Before I read this I thought Garrett McNamara surfing giant waves 
from crumbling glaciers was a hoax, and had no idea that ‘Kelly’ isn’t 
Slater’s real first name.<br />
I was expecting more ‘story’ if I’m honest, as all of these little 
surf gems are told in Alex Wade’s concise columnist style. But what I 
first thought a fault later became a strength, as each tale is quickly 
read, easily remembered and joyfully recounted. <br />
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EQ8J4KY/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00EQ8J4KY&linkCode=as2&tag=peaceandsurf-20&linkId=F7AO7ZEHJNQV2L3G">Amazing surf stories</a> has given me more tales to tell with surfer friends than any other book.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EQ8J4KY/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00EQ8J4KY&linkCode=as2&tag=peaceandsurf-20&linkId=F7AO7ZEHJNQV2L3G" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Buy this book from Amazon" border="0" src="http://www.surfertoday.com/images/books/buyfromamazon.gif" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<strong><br /></strong>

<br />
<strong><br /></strong>
<strong><br /></strong>
<br />
<div class="wp-caption alignleft" id="attachment_1592" style="width: 185px;">
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0345533305/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=0345533305&linkCode=as2&tag=peaceandsurf-20&linkId=PDMVLTRZDIJANC4A" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Fear Nothing by Dean Koontz" class="size-full wp-image-1592" height="285" src="http://www.surferdad.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/fear-nothing-dean-koontz.jpg" width="175" /></a></div>
<strong>5.<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0345533305/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=0345533305&linkCode=as2&tag=peaceandsurf-20&linkId=PDMVLTRZDIJANC4A"> Fear Nothing by Dean Koontz</a></strong><strong>:</strong><br />
<strong><br /></strong>
Christopher
 Snow is a 28yr old surfer who lives in Moonlight Bay, California. His 
claim to fame is also his curse, he suffers from – xeroderma pigmentosum
 (XP) – a real but rare condition causing light-sensitivity so severe he
 cannot be exposed to daylight. <br />
<br />
So Chris is a creature of the night – roaming freely through the town
 on his bike, surfing in the moonlight, exploring while most people 
sleep.<br />
Already weird enough to capture most peoples attention but the next 
24hrs get freaky with mutant monkeys, bodysnatchers, murders and his 
father’s dying words ‘<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0345533305/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=0345533305&linkCode=as2&tag=peaceandsurf-20&linkId=PDMVLTRZDIJANC4A">fear nothing</a>’.<br />
Not so surf centered as the others, but enough to justify inclusion. 
If you like Dean Koontz thrillers and surfing, you can’t lose.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0345533305/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=0345533305&linkCode=as2&tag=peaceandsurf-20&linkId=PDMVLTRZDIJANC4A" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Buy this book from Amazon" border="0" src="http://www.surfertoday.com/images/books/buyfromamazon.gif" /></a><br />
<br />
<strong><br /></strong>
<strong><br /></strong>
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
<strong><br /></strong>
<br />
<div class="wp-caption alignleft" id="attachment_1596" style="width: 185px;">
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0046LUUA4/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B0046LUUA4&linkCode=as2&tag=peaceandsurf-20&linkId=NTNASUGXI57HXHHW" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="The Big Drop by John Long" class="size-full wp-image-1596" height="263" src="http://www.surferdad.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/the-big-drop-john-long.jpg" width="175" /></a></div>
<strong>6. <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0046LUUA4/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B0046LUUA4&linkCode=as2&tag=peaceandsurf-20&linkId=NTNASUGXI57HXHHW">The Big Drop: Classic Big Wave Surfing Stories by John Long</a>:</strong><br />
<strong><br /></strong>
This
 is no ordinary collection of tall tales told by egotistical surfers.  
The Big Drop contains 32 true stories of legendary big wave adventures, 
throughout the evolution of big wave surfing. From the early days of 
Greg Noll at Waimea to modern day Mavericks, there’s a story for every 
generation of wave rider.<br />
<br />
The book’s focus on the early era of big wave riding during the 1950s
 and 1960s, demonstrate how times have changed, how far we’ve come in 
big wave surfing but also how brave and bold the first big wave surfers 
were. <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/proxy/AVvXsEjnK0QilWFGAeoW44K12VUoY_N5rMMFiR0eYCFTKOFlOhn0lEOpgIt8MWD0e_CocTpbWxIuHokSy6FDdwthJpE_ihz0qc8xDYIf8od5s-1mFW-mXnlxON_MW_ZxLVkPKm-sJlNQlAO8_aExQntG-6qXuqkpOYofZsjk=" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Buy this book from Amazon" border="0" src="http://www.surfertoday.com/images/books/buyfromamazon.gif" /></a><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0046LUUA4/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B0046LUUA4&linkCode=as2&tag=peaceandsurf-20&linkId=NTNASUGXI57HXHHW">The Big Drop</a>
 is an intoxicating concoction of charismatic characters with great 
names and great legacies, including Jose Angel who shouted at sharks, 
Ken Bradshaw who rode legendary Log Cabins, and Mark Foo whose life and 
death will be remembered forever.<br />
If you want to discover where big wave surfing began and what it’s all about, you can’t beat The Big Drop.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<strong><br /></strong>
<br />
<div class="wp-caption alignleft" id="attachment_1595" style="width: 185px;">
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1423600762/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=1423600762&linkCode=as2&tag=peaceandsurf-20&linkId=5S7NNUDAIRKFIR6T" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="The Surfers Code by Shaun Tomson" class="size-full wp-image-1595" height="233" src="http://www.surferdad.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/shaun_tomson_the_surfers_code.jpg" width="175" /></a></div>
<strong>7. <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1423600762/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=1423600762&linkCode=as2&tag=peaceandsurf-20&linkId=5S7NNUDAIRKFIR6T">Surfers Code: 12 Simple Lessons for Riding Through Life by Shaun Tomson</a></strong><strong>:</strong><br />
<strong><br /></strong>
Shaun Tomson should need no introduction, but in case you don’t know he’s a pioneering professional surfer from South Africa.<br />
<br />
At his zenith Shaun Tomson had won a World Champion title, setup a 
multi-million dollar surf clothing brand (Insight) and was an 
inspirational speaker. But then his 15 year old son Mathew died in a 
tragic accident.<br />
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1423600762/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=1423600762&linkCode=as2&tag=peaceandsurf-20&linkId=5S7NNUDAIRKFIR6T" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Buy this book from Amazon" border="0" src="http://www.surfertoday.com/images/books/buyfromamazon.gif" /></a>From his considerable experience of life’s ups and downs, Shaun has 
compiled ‘12 simple lessons for riding through life’ starting with ‘I 
will never turn my back on the ocean’.  Shaun is not a modest man, and 
rarely misses an opportunity to recount his successes, but that makes 
his tales of loss more poignant.<br />
His code and lessons will certainly ring true for surfers young and 
old and are well worth remembering.  As he says in his introduction “if a
 young surfer or anyone for that matter can read <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1423600762/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=1423600762&linkCode=as2&tag=peaceandsurf-20&linkId=5S7NNUDAIRKFIR6T">Surfers Code</a>,
 learn some useful information, and ultimately get more enjoyment in and
 out of the ocean… then it will be the best thing I have ever done”.  He
 may well be right<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<strong><br /></strong>
<strong>Other surfing books</strong> that have been highly recommended, but I’ve not yet had the pleasure of reading include: <br />
• <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1596913444/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=1596913444&linkCode=as2&tag=peaceandsurf-20&linkId=7BVLUL7XS5NMADP7">West of Jesus</a>: Surfing, Science, and the Origins of Belief by Steven Kotler<br />
• <a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Riding-Magic-Carpet-Surfers-Odyssey/dp/1840245026/">Riding the Magic Carpet</a>: A Surfer’s Odyssey to Find the Perfect Wave by Tom Anderson<br />
• <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0861715357/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=0861715357&linkCode=as2&tag=peaceandsurf-20&linkId=OIXXYQB5DDH4TF3U">Saltwater Buddha</a>: A Surfers Quest to Find Zen on the Sea by Jaimal Yogis<br />
• <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0743294203/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=0743294203&linkCode=as2&tag=peaceandsurf-20&linkId=X4FNXBKRF45WJSCW">Kook</a>: What Surfing Taught Me about Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave by Peter Heller<br />
And finally if you’re new to surfing or want to learn more about surf spots along the coast of California, <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1482691825/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=1482691825&linkCode=as2&tag=peaceandsurf-20&linkId=LMDFC62ALD5CFWRO">Wave Riding</a> by Neil Grunig is well worth a read.<br />
<br />
I’m sure there are many more surfing novels to discover, so please send me your suggestions.

Top 7 Surf Books of all time

Libraries are not a surfer’s natural habitat, and good surfing books are on the endangered list. Thanks to the dedicated work of a few in...

Incredible Waves

Surf Books, Surf Shop 9:04 PM

<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwqEsrlqEA-S9nQB-dvGiEXTCqNcD8ozB3eATWjnFl07XZbdobEyAjJjU9aNkWZQsSomdWMDWixDLVOysF4zxuUrtzjOL9dfPNI4EX3WjxDP5xXTePrv5pYlKuPV-As40OcxVsEF0n3s8/s1600/Incredible-Waves-oblique-cover.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwqEsrlqEA-S9nQB-dvGiEXTCqNcD8ozB3eATWjnFl07XZbdobEyAjJjU9aNkWZQsSomdWMDWixDLVOysF4zxuUrtzjOL9dfPNI4EX3WjxDP5xXTePrv5pYlKuPV-As40OcxVsEF0n3s8/s1600/Incredible-Waves-oblique-cover.jpg" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
A book from the publishers of Carve, is in the running for an award at the 2014 British Sports Book Awards. <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0956789331/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=0956789331&linkCode=as2&tag=peaceandsurf-20&linkId=C5CL3PJKAPOBGX4A" target="_blank">Incredible Waves</a>
 released last November, has been shortlisted in the Best Illustrated 
Book category of the prestigious annual awards. Other titles shortlisted
 in the Best Illustrated Book category include offerings by some blokes 
called Andy Murray and David Beckham… <br />
<br />
“It’s the first time a surfing book has ever been shortlisted for 
the awards, so we’re stoked,” said publisher Chris Power. ”Big, dramatic
 ocean waves are the focus of the book so a lot of the credit has to go 
to the photographers who took the shots, guys like Russell Ord, Mickey 
Smith, Clark Little, Tim McKenna, Brian Bielmann, Alan van Gysen and 
Chris Burkard. The book was designed in-house by David Alcock and Jamin 
Lean, who also did a fantastic job.”<br />
<br />
The 144-page hardback includes images of more than 50 
world-renowned surf spots including Pipeline, Cloudbreak, Desert Point, 
The Right, Shipstern’s Bluff, Skeleton Bay, Snapper Rocks, Apocalypse, 
Aileen’s, The Box and Teahupoo. <br />
<br />
Around 30 leading surf photographers contributed to <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0956789331/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=0956789331&linkCode=as2&tag=peaceandsurf-20&linkId=C5CL3PJKAPOBGX4A" target="_blank">Incredible Waves</a>, submitting images of waves in every possible mood from playful to deadly.<br />
<br />
The winners will be announced at an awards ceremony at Lord’s Cricket Ground at on 21 May.<br />
<br />
You can buy the book <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0956789331/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=0956789331&linkCode=as2&tag=peaceandsurf-20&linkId=C5CL3PJKAPOBGX4A" target="_blank">here</a>

Incredible Waves

A book from the publishers of Carve, is in the running for an award at the 2014 British Sports Book Awards. Incredible Waves released...

Adventure Guide: Hawaii the Big Island (Adventure Guides Series)

Surf Books, Surf Shop 12:17 AM

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<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Author: Bryan Fryklund and Jen Reeder</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Paperback: 500 pages </div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Publisher: Hunter Publishing: Adventure Guides</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Language: English </div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
ISBN-10: 158843625X </div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
ISBN-13: 978-1588436252 </div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Product Dimensions: 7.9 x 5 x 0.9 inches</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Shipping Weight: 1.4 pounds</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/158843625X/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=158843625X&linkCode=as2&tag=peaceandsurf-20&linkId=7IEJG5VGXMARZ57Y"><img alt="Buy this book from Amazon" border="0" src="http://www.surfertoday.com/images/books/buyfromamazon.gif" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<strong>OVERVIEW</strong><br />
No other guide provides such detailed information on hotels at all 
price levels, restaurants, shopping and other activities - from climbing
 the volcanoes to finding the best beaches and dive spots.<br />
The authors live on the Big Island so they know it as only insiders 
do. Color maps and photos throughout show the all sights and even the 
hotels and restaurants.<br />
The best spas, golf courses, horseback riding, hikes and bike rides. 
Night dive with manta rays, swim with dolphins, ski down Mauna Kea 
volcano, snorkel in a coral garden, ride a helicopter over Hawaii 
Volcanoes National Park, even learn to do the hula.<br />
The authors tell you how and where to do it all.<br />
<br />

Adventure Guide: Hawaii the Big Island (Adventure Guides Series)

Author: Bryan Fryklund and Jen Reeder Paperback: 500 pages Publisher: Hunter Publishing: Adventure Guides Language: English ISB...

A Golden Age: Surfing's Revolutionary 1960s and '70s

Surf Books, Surf Shop 12:25 AM

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<table style="width: 100%;"><tbody>
<tr><td><br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
<div style="text-align: center;">
Author: John Witzig</div>
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<div style="text-align: center;">
Hardcover: 208 pages </div>
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<div style="text-align: center;">
Publisher: Rizzoli (April 2, 2013) </div>
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<div style="text-align: center;">
Language: English </div>
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<div style="text-align: center;">
ISBN-10: 0847838285 </div>
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<div style="text-align: center;">
ISBN-13: 978-0847838288 </div>
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<div style="text-align: center;">
Product Dimensions: 8.5 x 1.1 x 11 inches</div>
</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0847838285/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=0847838285&linkCode=as2&tag=peaceandsurf-20&linkId=GSBDLMM4R6EO7M7K"><img alt="Buy this book from Amazon" border="0" src="http://www.surfertoday.com/images/books/buyfromamazon.gif" /></a></div>
</div>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<br />
<br />
<strong>OVERVIEW</strong><br />
Surfing's formative period from 1965 to 1978, as shown through the 
most complete book of the iconic images of photographer John Witzig.<br />
<br />
Chronicling the great creative years in the evolution of surfing, the
 late 1960s and early 70s, this engaging volume documents the 
revolutionary changes of the era - in board length, in surf style and 
technique - through the images of Australian photographer John Witzig.<br />
<br />
Witzig was not only photographing the scene, he was part of it, a 
group that included surfers Bob McTavish and George Greenough, and his 
images reflect both that access and that intimacy.<br />
<br />
In 1967, he created a firestorm of controversy with a Surfer cover 
story declaring that a core of young Australian surfers had redefined 
the sport, as evidenced by his friend Nat Young's blazing win in the 
1966 World Surfing championships.<br />
<br />
Witzig went on to capture the defining moments - the surfers, the 
draft-dodging back-to-landers, the radical developments of board design,
 and, of course, the waves, from Australia to Honolua Bay - of surfing's
 most thrilling period.<br />
<br />
Soulful, poetic, iconoclastic, filled with rare images, this book is a unique look at surfing's cultural revolution.

A Golden Age: Surfing's Revolutionary 1960s and '70s

Author: John Witzig Hardcover: 208 pages Publisher: Rizzoli (April 2, 2013) Language: English ISBN-10: 0847838285 ...