Not only did the weekend mark the arrival of the swell
of the year in Indonesia, it also saw the first solid session for the
jewel of the Bukit Peninsula. Expectations were high, crowds were thick
and the wave so good they named her twice, brought the goods.
"Jeeeezzz it was busy, I knew it was going be out of control but
that's partly 'cos this season hasn't really kicked off yet," says Nick
Chong after a day hustling for shacks of shacks. "It's pretty rare that a
bump like this would last over 72 hours and stay juicy. Even though it
wasn't huge, it still had a lot of energy which is what you need."
With
neap tides keeping a fair bit of water on top of the reef all day, the
usually more narrow window for Padang was wide open making every session
a good session.
"She pretty much broke consistently on a nice mid to low for about 8
hours a day, so every session delivered some epic nuggets if you picked
the right one," continues Nick. "I knew it would end up on Padang's
doorstep at healthy 6ft. That's a lot of energy to push through and keep
holding like that, even though the swell was a little south there were
still some perfect nuggets that ran deep from second rock."
The
beach packed and the cliffs lined, half the island was there to either
get a bomb or watch a bomb, and few went home empty handed.
"It's a pretty damn good feeling to get some Padang water time cause
she's been sleeping for a while and a lot of surfers love and respect
that wave," says Nick. "The waves of the day for sure were made by Adi
Bol
Putra. Every session, every day. No one even come close to him bro.
He's hands down the best to ride Padang and does it with style and
grace. He's an animal out there."
"It
was pumping but I didn't get many waves, there were too many people
out. Wish I had it all to myself," laughs Tumbling Sudiantara. "Tomorrow
they said it will be a bit bigger, so I'm keen to get back out there
then. I got a really good one but someone dropped in on me."
"I
didn't really know what to expect Saturday morning, there was a lot of
talk about this swell for the last 2 weeks," recalls Daniel shortly
after the above shot was taken. "I think it lived up to the hype, there
was some big, really powerful waves. On Sunday i creased my board and
banged my foot up a little coming so i had a lay day today. Hopefully we
get a few more swells like that this season."
"I
was out there for 4 hours, trying to get the best one," tells Demien
Amar. "For the first 2 hours I couldn't get one because I sat way to
deep and somebody always dropped in on me. But luckily I got a couple. I
expected I'd get more, but I can't complain,one good one is all you
need."
"The
Padang session was good, less scary than the Ulu's one in the morning,"
Mattia Morri said. "I always have a look at the Padang lookout and get
put off by how many people there usually are out, but this time I didn't
bother looking and went straight out, ended up getting 2 ok ones. Wish
I'd paddled out earlier. I didn't have a plan really, I had my 7'2" in
the car in case Ulu's was good and my 6'1" for Padang. Used both of them
so it wasn't a bad day."
Mustafa
Jeksen: "Today was a great day, the perfect swell arrived and perfect
direction for Bukit. This is what we want. I had really good session
today. I hope tomorrow and the next I'll catch better bigger. My plan is
to go to somewhere looking for something different and uncrowded. At
the moment in our home always busy not just on road we get traffic, we
get traffic in the water too."
"This
weekend was the first time this year that Padang Padang came to life,"
tells Kayu Viannaso. "All the boys were frothing to get a couple, which
made it hard to share but when the good ones came it was worth the wait.
Swell was a bit too South so some of the bigger ones wouldn't hit the
bank properly, but I can't complain, I got some good waves and its
always good to surf Padang with all the boys. My plan for other surfs
this swell would be to try to surf Uluwatu bombies or outside corner,
but I heard that Deserts was pumping also."
"This was the best Bukit for two days swell of the year pretty much solid 5-7ft swell," standout of the weekend at Padang, Adi
Bol
Putra explains. "So glad I was at home for this swell I guess next
swell I'm going to Lombok for Desert Point. It's a different challenge
for me."
"I've
been waiting for this session," says Sima. "I'm so happy i got the best
and the bigger waves. The next waves will be bigger around Padang and
G-land. I hope I can get them all."