You want to be a better surfer. So does your best friend, and so does a pro like Jamie O’Brien.
The thirst for improvement is only not insatiable, but the taste comes
in many flavors too. Most times you focus on improving, you work on
technique. But we're not here to talk about you how to do an air
reverse. Because there's good surfing, and then there's being a good
surfer.
So instead of telling you to bend you knees on a bottom turn, let's instead talk about how to make better of your existence as a human who rides waves. So, for example:
So instead of telling you to bend you knees on a bottom turn, let's instead talk about how to make better of your existence as a human who rides waves. So, for example:
1. Impulse buy a surfboard
Impulse, for the most part, is a product of passion and why not let your impulsive desires give you the gift of that new quad? Hit a surf shop. Hit it hard. Because credit card debt is just a state of mind.2. Start giving
A hoot, a holler, some wax or a wetsuit. Giving will give you the feeling of greatness. So give whatever you have an excess of and experience the joy of generosity.3. Be greener
Environmental destruction is the great paradox of today's surfing. The reason being surfing is an act that is performed in nature and nature only, but the equipment we use puts Mother Earth in a very firm chokehold. So make up for it. Search for green(ish) products. Pick up trash. Behave yourself.4. Travel a bit
Being home feels good, but it will never make you great. Travelling, however, will. Get on a plane and tell your friends what Jeffreys Bay is like. Tell 'em about the North Shore. Even go to Bells, if that's your thing.5. Dress the part
Totally kidding – never be the guy wearing boardshorts at dinner.6. Pay attention
Look, see, find, consume, consume and consume. You have to stay in touch with the way our sport is evolving. The good news is that you've already started because you're reading this.7. Learn how to forecast
We live in a time when every speck of information is at our fingertips. That's great, but it's taught us how forget. It's unlearned us. Who wants to read a chart when you can just look at a digestible 14-day outlook at the snap of a thumb? You. That's who.8. Go search
Surfing should never be a task, and therefore it should never be something where you just pursue whatever's easiest. It should always be a joy. An adventure. And you should treat it as such. Go find where's best, and if you don't know where's best, then you'd better start looking.9. Try everything
Whether it's a weird new board, or something you'd never think you can land (maybe you never will), try it. Stagnancy is lethal and change is best served as a shove, not a push. You're strong, aren't you?10. Stop worrying
Sharks? The ocean is their domain, not ours. Drowning? It's a peaceful way to go. Broken board? Time for a new one (see reason 1). The point is that there are things that will happen fully out of your control. Accept that, because any other mindset is a roadblock for fun. Still, maybe avoid the shakiest waves.