It was an average day with plenty of sunshine and we had been out
for an hour or so. There were about twenty of us competing for waves
and we had a right hand break that if you went through a re-form of the
wave the length of you wave could be about 50 to 80 meters.
I caught a wave and right away dropped a steep face into a tube that had me placed about six to eight feet inside of the break. I traveled in there for about thirty to forty feet and then I came out of the tube, took my board to the lip and did a re- entry and re positioned and went into another tube that went a further twenty feet or so. I came out of that tube and quickly entered another before moving onto the reform and I rode the wave all the way to the shallow water where I stepped off into shallow water.
I quickly went out and shared my wave with my elder brother and it was dismissed as he shared three or so waves he had ridden and so I thought that all I had to show for myself was a fond memory. Getting three tubes in one wave is pretty rare and getting out of them all is even rarer.
Years later I was walking down to the same beach with my elder brother and one of the towns best surfers. My brother was having a go at me and this guy spoke up. He told my brother in all his time on the beach he had not often seen a better wave ridden then the wave he saw me ride one day. I asked him if it was the one with three tubes and he shook his head and agreed that it was.
The lesson I learned that day was no matter what you do in life there is always a witness. God is always our witness. I have also learned to have fond memories of events I have had in my life. I will always remember that wave, I was never a great surfer but I did enjoy myself and at one time I was quite slim.
Just remember guys. Someone is always watching you even when you're alone.
I caught a wave and right away dropped a steep face into a tube that had me placed about six to eight feet inside of the break. I traveled in there for about thirty to forty feet and then I came out of the tube, took my board to the lip and did a re- entry and re positioned and went into another tube that went a further twenty feet or so. I came out of that tube and quickly entered another before moving onto the reform and I rode the wave all the way to the shallow water where I stepped off into shallow water.
I quickly went out and shared my wave with my elder brother and it was dismissed as he shared three or so waves he had ridden and so I thought that all I had to show for myself was a fond memory. Getting three tubes in one wave is pretty rare and getting out of them all is even rarer.
Years later I was walking down to the same beach with my elder brother and one of the towns best surfers. My brother was having a go at me and this guy spoke up. He told my brother in all his time on the beach he had not often seen a better wave ridden then the wave he saw me ride one day. I asked him if it was the one with three tubes and he shook his head and agreed that it was.
The lesson I learned that day was no matter what you do in life there is always a witness. God is always our witness. I have also learned to have fond memories of events I have had in my life. I will always remember that wave, I was never a great surfer but I did enjoy myself and at one time I was quite slim.
Just remember guys. Someone is always watching you even when you're alone.
