Surfing is always changing. In smaller waves, progressive surfing has pushed the boundaries of aerial wizardry and creative riding. And in big surf, technology has nullified much of the danger inherent in traditional big wave approaches. Everything from floatation devices to Powered Water Craft have the potential to place surfers in danger well beyond their ability level.
Surfing big waves is the ultimate level of performance our sport has to offer. It requires a combination of mental clarity, emotional regulation, and physical endurance. So the bottom line is that even with all the technological advances helping hands, surfers still need to be ready for those moments in big surf when things don’t go as planned. In reality, plan on things not going as planned. And here is how you do it.
Be Physically Prepared
Nothing builds confidence like being physically prepared for a heavy hold down or an extended swim to shore. And confidence is the ultimate goal when riding big surf. You never want to paddle out into big waves if you are not physically fit. There are situations that you can’t even imagine in which help isn’t an option. Getting sucked under a pier, pinned against some rocks, caught in a rip current, or cast adrift without a board or leash are all real possibilities. Therefore, being physically ready for any situation will put your mind at ease and better enable you to tread and stroke for as long as need be. Some key exercises include jumping rope, doing push-ups, long-distance bicycling, swimming, and lots of surfing are all great ways to stay strong, fast, and limber for those sketchy situations.Understand the Conditions
Knowing what you are about to paddle into is every bit as important as your physical state. Sit and watch!Watch the other surfers. Where are they sitting? Where are they taking off? Where are they successfully paddling out?
Watch the waves! How much time goes by in between sets? Where are the waves closing out the most? Is it a rising swell or a dropping swell? How about the reef and bottom? You should paddle out to the spot on a small day and get a feel for the wave and the get a look at the bottom.
Choose your Waves Wisely
Unless you are Mark Healy, you probably don’t want to drop in on a 30 foot closeout and get stuck in the impact zone. So it is important that you choose your waves wisely. This means avoiding the first couple waves in the set, or you will find yourself getting pummeled by the biggest waves in the series. Also, don’t take chances if you are new to big waves. Go for waves that look to have a tapering shoulder that you can safely reach safety. If you do get a big closeout, straighten out and try to ride the white water as far as you can, so you can reach the safety of the inside section or get closer to the channel.Stay Calm
This is huge. Remember this: very few waves will ever hold you under water longer than you can hold your breath. That’s the reality of it. Knowing this will help keep you calm. If you stay calm, you can stay relaxed and use less energy (and oxygen) and more easily escape a difficult situation. Instead of flailing and hyperventilating, sometimes it’s best to stay calm and let the waves knock you further in away from the impact zone. So there’s the deal. Big wave surfing is great way to push your surfing to the next level and more importantly push your body and spirit to the new extremes. So be prepared and go rip!Source
