Laird Hamilton is one of the most famous watermen in the world. He challenged unridden waves; he defied death and opened the way to modern tow-in big wave surfing.
Hamilton was born on the 2nd March, 1964, in San Francisco, California, but he moved to Hawaii when he was still a young boy. At 17, Laird was already a superb wave rider.As years passed by, the blonde surfer tried new things and risked his life several times. Hamilton left a mark in the history of Teahupoo, and introduced foil boarding in the giant waves.
He can be controversial, conservative and cruel at times, but Laird's career speaks for itself. The cat with nine lives is making no plans to retire from the spotlight, whether he's in the water or developing his multiple business ideas.
Today, Laird Hamilton is known for his surfing, windsurfing, diving, and swimming skills. In "Force of Nature," the waterman reveals how he sees life, challenge and fear management.
The Kauaian has been a source of inspiration for many generations of watermen. His words, thoughts and quotes have touched pros and recreational surfers. Let's hear Laird Hamilton and his sayings.
We're all equal before a wave.
The world doesn't need more conformists. If you don't fin in, celebrate that, and then get ready to stand your ground.
Surfing's one of the few sports that you look ahead to see what's behind.
The biggest sin in the world would be if I lost my love for the ocean.
Wiping out is an underappreciated skill.
For those searching for something more than just the norm. We lay it all down, including what others call sanity, for just a few moments on waves larger than life. We do this because we know there is still something greater than all of us. Something that inspires us spiritually. We start going downhill, when we stop taking risks.
If you cultivate something in your mind, you give it a life. It's really that simple.
A little adrenaline every day keeps the boredom away.
Make sure you worst enemy doesn't live between your own two ears.
Just because people are doing extraordinary things doesn't mean they're not ordinary people.
Riding a fifty-foot wave for the first time is like the first time you go more than a hundred miles an hour in your car.
When you make a mistake, the ocean gives you an instant reminder. You get punished.
There are strong young guys. But there's nothing meaner and more experienced than a fifty-year-old tough guy.
I don't want to not live because of my fear of what could happen.
To find your passion, you have to look inward. If you look outward, all you'll see is what other people are doing. You're not other people.
You eat garbage, you're probably going to perform like garbage.
If you stop exploring, everything becomes smaller.
Fear is an unbelievable motivator.
Fear is a natural response. Without it, we wouldn't survive.
Meet up with your fears. If you're afraid of sharks, go learn all about sharks. Get into the water with one.
The flip side of fear is commitment.
My mom was surprised that I made it to my 20th birthday. I guess it's the whole nine lives thing. There were a few close calls, but I'm still here. I've got a few of those nine lives left.
Make a point of practicing on your weak side until you don't have one anymore.
Do not be afraid of death. Be afraid of the half-lived life.
